No Stop Bath?

[RonMontad]

I plan to use Photographers' Formulary TF-5 Rapid Fixer. It says "no stop bath needed" - that is, just rinse off the developer with water then use this fixer.

My question: would the use of a stop bath anyway harm the process in this case?

Also, can I skip the stop bath for print as well as film?

[Bob]

According to the bumf, the fixer has "near neutral" pH so potentially using an acid stop-bath may have the adverse affect of acidifying the fixer and potentially preventing it from working (tho that is very unlikely, depending on how well buffered it is). So, in the interests of safety, I would do whatever the manufacturer recommends.

Given that most papers seem to develop to completion and as such are less dependant on the stop bath, I would think it would be even safer to rinse paper than film. I would augest a better wash than "rinse off" - say 30-60 seconds in running water - but lots of people do not use stop with film or paper.

[John King]

I have always been under the firm understanding that using a stop bath will allow the fixer to last longer, as it has not to overcome the developer before it starts to work. Irrespective of the PH of the developer or fixer, going from one to another will exhaust the fixer quicker.

Stop bath is also a lot cheaper than fixer. so personally I would use a stop bath anyway. Actually I have started to use a second stop bath as I did when I first started out with my own developing half a century ago. You would be surprised how many people do not fix adequately and the prints discolour after a short while.

[Stocky]

I have found that using an acid stop bath has led to my fibre prints not staining. When I used water only, despite two bath fixing in far-from-overused fixer sometimes some time after processing I got stains.

A tiny amount of acid carried over to the fixer will have practically zero effect on the fixer according to various articles I've read. The pH of fixer is not really critical.

[Jerry Bodine]

To clarify, the complete instructions for TF-5 are here (per Photographers Formulary, the mfr):

CAPACITY
The capacity of TF-5 is about 30 8x10 prints on fiber-based paper, 60 8x10 prints on resin coated paper, per liter of working solution.
For film the capacity is 15-20 rolls of film per liter of working solution.
USING TF-5 ON PRINTS
1- Develop the print as usual.
2- Drain.
3- Rinse in running water at 68° F for 30 seconds, with continuous agitation.
As an alternate, you may prefer to use an acid stop bath.
4- Drain.
5- Place the resin-coated print in the TF-5 fixer for 30 seconds, or fiber-base prints for 1 minute.
6- Drain and immediately place in a tray containing 68°F running water.
7- Wash fiber-based papers for at least 15 minutes - up to 25 minutes. Wash resin coated papers at least 3 minutes - up to 5.

[Lostlabours]

Ron Mowrey who designed TF-5 states that you should use a stop bath when using it with prints. This is even more important with Fibre based papers he's seen Dichroic fog staining when no stop bath is used.

Ian

[skellum]

I've never used stop with film.
When I use RC paper I don't bother, but I have sometimes seen stain appear on fibre papers without it.
Fibre papers cost more and take more time to process, so I think it well worth using a stop with them.

[Mike O'Pray]

I've never used stop with film.
When I use RC paper I don't bother, but I have sometimes seen stain appear on fibre papers without it.
Fibre papers cost more and take more time to process, so I think it well worth using a stop with them.

Agreed and as a bonus the smell from Kodak stop bath reminds me of my local "Chipper" many years ago in Aberdeen :D

Footnote: "Chipper" is the Aberdonian dialect word for a Fish and Chip shop where a Mealie Pudding Supper was nearly as popular as a Fish Supper. For all I know the word "Chipper" might be as foreign to someone from the Western Isles as it is to a Sassenach.

Mike, signing off to the words of the tune "Hey Johnnie Cope" which certainly will not be foreign :D