Pinholes in negatives

[Mike Meal]

I'm sure I've seen others mention this subject before but I've Googled the problem but the results just came up with Pinhole cameras etc....

I've been getting very small holes in my negatives and I havent got a clue why?
I've been using Foma 100 developed in Rodinal followed by Ilfostop and Rapid Fix for the dilutions and recommened times by Ilford

Can anyone tell me why this is happening?

[Trevor Crone]

Mike, are they literally holes or just clear areas of film?

[percepts]

Often caused by stop bath reacting with developer, depending on developer, and causing gas which blows a hole in the emulsion. Stop bath should be no stronger than 1.5% at most and infact 0.5% is probably strong enough to kill development pretty quick. So try reduced strength of stop bath. i.e. dilute 3 times more than you do currently so if it was 1:100 then use it at 1:300

[Richard Gould]

I had the some problem with some foma 400, dev in rodinal, and could'nt understand it,and put done to a problem withthe film, it only happened on some film, and only on a few negs, but then I tried aph09 and it stopped, I have deved many fomas in aph09 with no problems,then recently I put a foma though rodinal and the pinholes were back,I can only assume it is something to do with rodinal, but I don't know what, Richard

[Trevor Crone]

Mike, If its of any help I use one of these pens (http://store.falkiners.com/store/product/4019/Zig-Millenium---Black-005BK/) to spot clear areas in my LF negatives. They are light fast and acid free. At 0.05mm they are very fine. Much easier to deal with a white spot then a black one on the print.

They are also excellent for writing a title and signing on the print margin.

[Richard Gould]

I thought of stop bath, reduced the dilution, same problem, used plain water as stop bath, same problem, only stopped when I changed dev, never happened on o9ther film though Richard

[Mike Meal]

Trevor, after looking at them closely I can see that they are just clear areas of film. Could this be a dust problem? I clean my darkroom once a week and always use compressed air before I load new film into holders.

I've rescued this neg from the bin to show you the extent of the problem.

[Trevor Crone]

Mike, I would have thought Richard has hit upon the problem and that its a compatability problem with the developer and film. I had problems with 4x5 Fuji Across and PMK pyro and when I changed developer all was fine.

Before you rush to a conclusion however I think you should try a different developer with Foma 100.

[Mike Meal]

I'II pick up some ID11 today and see if that solves the problem.

I have been thinking of changing from Foma 100, its cheap n cheerful and has been great while I've been learning LF but I'm going to try either Delta 100 or FP4+, I just cant decide which?

[Dave]

I'II pick up some ID11 today and see if that solves the problem.

I have been thinking of changing from Foma 100, its cheap n cheerful and has been great while I've been learning LF but I'm going to try either Delta 100 or FP4+, I just cant decide which?

:) I've just brought a stock of Foma to try instead of my usual Delta stock.

[Martin Aislabie]

Mike, I had loads of dust problems when I first started with 5x4

The dust on a sheet a film at the time of exposure leaves what looks like holes in the emulsion - pin holes as well as the more usual dust particles

I still have dust problems to be honest - but I am more disciplined about cleaning everything before loading my Film Holders – including my washing my hands.

I now keep my Darkslides in individual Ziploc bags inside a Lock & Lock container - but it’s still not enough

I have found it is necessary to give the Film Holder a wipe down before exposing the film and again before unloading it.

I then use an anti static brush to clean the inside & outside of the Film holder before loading with film once again.

I also use a Harrison Changing Tent and wipe the inside of it with a slightly damp clean but well used linen tea towel.

One of the troubles with Changing Tents is they seem to be a one way trap for dust - it gets in (no idea how) and is very difficult to get out

I can see why people are attracted to Readyloads

With a better house keeping regime my dust problems have reduced considerably but I don't think I will ever eliminate them

Tetenal used to sell a range of Spot Pens that had a bleaching pen (Pen 0) to minimise these black dots that show up on your prints – but Tetenal have discontinued the product.

I have always used HP5 - so I know with almost certainty that any problems with the Negs are mine not the manufacturers.

Good luck

Martin

[Mike Meal]

Thought I'd give a little update on this topic...
I've recntly changed developer (D76) and film to Delta 100, reduced my stopbath dilution and I still have the same problem.
I have bought the pen Trevor recommended which certainly gets rid of the white speck. I've spent the last hour attempting to spot a print with Diaphoto dyes, I think I may need a little more practice though as my print now appears to have a bad case of the acne.:slap:

[Mike Meal]

I also think that Martin may of hit the nail on the head with this one, I thought I kept my whole darkroom practice clean but obviously not.

[Dave]

Just tell yourself that spotting prints is therapeutic, after all what else would you do with the time. One tip on spotting that I can offer is that you don’t have to obliterate the spot, just disguise it so that it isn’t immediately obvious.

[Mike Meal]

The annoying part of this whole speck problem is that they only seem to appear in highlight areas where it seems its hardest to spot.
I think I'II save the spotting for rainy days, I kept looking out the window and thinking that I should be out there shooting and not sat inside.

[Trevor Crone]

Mike, I know its no consolation but I was spotting a negative recently with that very pen. Certainly got rid of them printing as black spots but now I have to spot the white ones:mad: You can't win, but I find it's the lesser of two evils.:(

I use Tetenal spotting pens on the prints but sadly I think they've been discontinued:(

BTW I've found if I brush the dark slide before sliding it out prior to exposure this helps prevent dust from getting on the negative.

[Victor Krag]

Martin,

As the same here when I first started with 4x5. (Though re: bubble formed pinholes, I soak film in water for about 10 secs before devving so to keep bubbles from forming) Re: dust, I wiped down the plastic holders inside and out with a very slightly damp cloth when I first get new ones, then blew compressed air over every surface of holders and slides. Like you, I use a brush, a Staticmaster to be exact, but I don't use it on the any surface but the emulsion side of the film while I'm loading it. If I do this just prior to going out to shoot, it seems to keep all the negs free of dust except for about 3 of the 12 frames ( six holders). If I wait a week, dust seems to have re-settled on the film again so I know the holders are not dust free. I keep empty and loaded holders in black plastic bags (that paper comes in) inside padded nylon Calumet film holder pouches. The dust problem was greatly reduced by brushing only the entire emulsion side and shooting within hours after.