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kennethcooke
23rd February 2009, 09:56 PM
As http://www.kauserinternational.com/Photography/Capital/Model%20Sp1.htm

I read good reports about the use of spot meters. My M6's have what Leica term as a fat spot but nothing like a stand alone meter can boast. I remember the Pentax Spotmeter from years ago and wondered of anyone had experience using the modern versions

Trevor Crone
23rd February 2009, 10:04 PM
Kenneth, I have used the Pentax Spotmeter V but now use their digital spotmeter which is much smaller and more responsive in low light situations.

I've had it for some years and it has proved very reliable and robust.

kennethcooke
23rd February 2009, 10:37 PM
Kenneth, I have used the Pentax Spotmeter V but now use their digital spotmeter which is much smaller and more responsive in low light situations.

I've had it for some years and it has proved very reliable and robust.

Which model do you use Trevor?

Argentum
23rd February 2009, 10:39 PM
I swear by my Minolta Spot Meter F which is the equal or better than most.
The F version is also a flash meter. There is a version which can't be used for flash but they are much less common. Second Hand prices are usually upto £150 or so but can get lucky and get them for £75.

Pentax are also very popular.

Or if you want the ultimate then spectra as used by the movie industry but they are very pricey ( but still in prodcution ). These are reportedly very good in very low light.

http://www.spectracine.com/product_2.html

Martin Aislabie
23rd February 2009, 10:39 PM
I have the digital Pentax Spotmeter - one of the best buys I ever made.

You can still get new ones if you want - http://www.badgergraphic.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=871

Martin

Ian David
23rd February 2009, 10:44 PM
Kenneth
Like Trevor and Martin, I also use a Pentax Digital Spotmeter (which I got from Robert White Photographic about 5 years ago). Ditto their comments on reliability and build quality, etc. The actual meter readout is in EV units, which is very convenient if you have a camera with EVs marked on the lens. Otherwise, there are rings on the meter which enable conversion of the EV to a shutter/aperture combo. The meter takes small 6V batteries (silver oxide S28 preferred, or lithium L28) - the Kodak S28 should be readily available in the UK.
Ian

Bob
24th February 2009, 12:00 AM
I use a Sekonic L-558 spot/incident/flash meter - more bells and whistles than you can stuff in a very large suitcase; arguably too many but you don't have to use them all.

Bill
24th February 2009, 07:30 AM
I'm another Pentax Digital Spotmeter user. Find it very easy to use and quite accurate.

Bill

Daud
24th February 2009, 02:44 PM
I also have the Pentax digital , with the little zone label attached - very good meter.

David.

Les McLean
24th February 2009, 03:19 PM
I've used a Soligor analogue spot meter for 30 years and it's still going strong despite the immersion in water it had many years ago in the Lake District, I lost it in a beck for several hours. I took it apart and let it dry for a couple of days in a warm room and it's been fine ever since. In very low light conditions it can be difficult to read the lower values but I've always managed. It's probably the best £50 I've spent on photographic kit.

About 10 years ago I bought a second hand Elicar digital spot meter as a spare but it's a Soligor marketed under a different name for it is identical in appearance to my old analogue meter.

Dave miller
24th February 2009, 04:52 PM
I've used a Soligor analogue spot meter for 30 years and it's still going strong despite the immersion in water it had many years ago in the Lake District, I lost it in a beck for several hours. I took it apart and let it dry for a couple of days in a warm room and it's been fine ever since. In very low light conditions it can be difficult to read the lower values but I've always managed. It's probably the best £50 I've spent on photographic kit.

About 10 years ago I bought a second hand Elicar digital spot meter as a spare but it's a Soligor marketed under a different name for it is identical in appearance to my old analogue meter.

I'm glad that you mentioned the humble Soligor Les, for I use one too. No bells, and it doesn't whistle, just does the job.
Last summer I brought a rather expensive electronic spot meter that probably could record television programmes without instruction, but on checking it against the Soligor the light readings were identical :(, so I sold it on.

Argentum
24th February 2009, 05:02 PM
I'm glad that you mentioned the humble Soligor Les, for I use one too. No bells, and it doesn't whistle, just does the job.
Last summer I brought a rather expensive electronic spot meter that probably could record television programmes without instruction, but on checking it against the Soligor the light readings were identical :(, so I sold it on.

Sounds like a bout of gas to me :D What would you have done if the readings had been different?

RH Designs
24th February 2009, 05:04 PM
I had a Minolta Spotmeter F which was great, but it died after getting caught in a rain shower. Not immersed in water like Les's, just a bit damp. Minolta charged me a small fortune to fix it (having meanwhile returned it to me in kit form after I left it with their repair people on their stand at Focus), and then it died again a few months later so I bought a Sekonic which has been fine. The only thing I miss vs the Minolta is the viewfinder readout - I think newer Sekonics have that now. My OM-4s also have a superb multi-spot metering system.

Dave miller
24th February 2009, 05:05 PM
Sounds like a bout of gas to me :D What would you have done if the readings had been different?

Why, brought another one of course, and averaged the readings.:D
It's a well known fact that you can't have too much equipment.

Argentum
24th February 2009, 07:47 PM
I had a Minolta Spotmeter F which was great, but it died after getting caught in a rain shower. Not immersed in water like Les's, just a bit damp. Minolta charged me a small fortune to fix it (having meanwhile returned it to me in kit form after I left it with their repair people on their stand at Focus), and then it died again a few months later so I bought a Sekonic which has been fine. The only thing I miss vs the Minolta is the viewfinder readout - I think newer Sekonics have that now. My OM-4s also have a superb multi-spot metering system.

I've had no problems with mine but I have been careful with it. I just read the sekonic blurb and the "waterproof seals" do look like an attractive option.
The thing I like best about the minolta is the ability to take a spot reading of something you want on zone 3, and then having pressed the store button you can hold down the metering button and it gives you a constant eyepiece readout of the stop difference as you scan the subject looking for the brightest part, at which point you immediately know what zone its on. No dials to rotate or calculations to be made except adding the stop difference to 3 or whichever zone you metered first. Its very simple and fast to use.

Argentum
24th February 2009, 07:52 PM
Why, brought another one of course, and averaged the readings.:D
It's a well known fact that you can't have too much equipment.

On a serious note, that is the whole point of doing film speed tests. They compensate for your meter not being truly accurate so it doesn't matter if its a 1/4 or a 1/2 stop out providing it is that much out across its full range.
I think a lot of people get very worried when they find that their film speed seems much slower or faster than what other people seem to use. It's very often due to their meter being inaccurate but they don't realise that the film speed test is compensating for that.

The problem comes when you have a backup meter which gives differnet readings. Fortunately, the minoltas have an adjuster so can match the meters.

Dave miller
24th February 2009, 08:03 PM
On a serious note, that is the whole point of doing film speed tests. They compensate for your meter not being truly accurate so it doesn't matter if its a 1/4 or a 1/2 stop out providing it is that much out across its full range.
I think a lot of people get very worried when they find that their film speed seems much slower or faster than what other people seem to use. It's very often due to their meter being inaccurate but they don't realise that the film speed test is compensating for that.

The problem comes when you have a backup meter which gives differnet readings. Fortunately, the minoltas have an adjuster so can match the meters.

Quite right, mine has a little screw thingy that does that.
Personally I always found the meter that was printed inside the film carton to be very accurate, but they don't give you one with 120 film :( so I had to buy the Soligor. :cool:
It does have the added advantage that, when out with a group, I can squint through the thing and at least give the impression I know what I'm doing.

Mike O'Pray
24th February 2009, 09:05 PM
Dave Losing it in a beck like Les is bad enough but if it gives different readings from your other meter then you can always send it beck.

P.S. Only applies in S Africa :confused:? Needs a moment's thought maybe?

Mike

Steven Taylor
25th February 2009, 12:47 PM
I use spot meters and have done for many years. What I will say is, it doesn’t really matter what make or model it is, the important part is knowing how to use it. Average camera and incident meters are pretty foolproof in 9 out of 10 situations, but be careful what you point your spot meter at. A basic understanding of zone measurement is essential if you are going to use something as precise as a spot meter.
Steven

Mark Burley
26th February 2009, 12:19 AM
I recently acquired a Soligor and found that I struggled with it - but thanks to Stoo Batchelor He measured it against his and found it was a stop and a half out. a quick adjustment on the screw thingy and now seems to be fine.

First batch of films to be devved shortly...

kennethcooke
26th February 2009, 10:21 PM
I use spot meters and have done for many years. What I will say is, it doesn’t really matter what make or model it is, the important part is knowing how to use it. Average camera and incident meters are pretty foolproof in 9 out of 10 situations, but be careful what you point your spot meter at. A basic understanding of zone measurement is essential if you are going to use something as precise as a spot meter.
Steven

Steven- I agree and the fat Spot Meter (Leica speak) in my M6 is very very good. As far a zone systems are concerned. It is mainly aimed at those using a larger format than 35mm which I use exclusively

kennethcooke
27th February 2009, 05:55 PM
I had a look at the Gossen Starlite Spot Meter in Leeds today. Does anyone have experience of this meter

Available from Amazon UK at £339.00 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gossen-Starlite-Multifunction-Digital-Reflected/dp/B00008R9O6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1235756991&sr=1-6

Argentum
27th February 2009, 06:15 PM
Steven- I agree and the fat Spot Meter (Leica speak) in my M6 is very very good. As far a zone systems are concerned. It is mainly aimed at those using a larger format than 35mm which I use exclusively
Your fat spot is an averaging meter with a leica K factor applied.
A spot meter on its own will give different readings than your fat spot. So you've got to know how to apply that reading. I would be interested to hear how you will do that.

kennethcooke
27th February 2009, 08:29 PM
Your fat spot is an averaging meter with a leica K factor applied.
A spot meter on its own will give different readings than your fat spot. So you've got to know how to apply that reading. I would be interested to hear how you will do that.

Do you mean how will I correlate the Leica M6 meter with a spot meter. I don't know but the more I use my M6's the more I come to rely on thier meters and the results, by and large are as expected so maybe I don't need a spot meter after all. Does that make sense?

Argentum
27th February 2009, 08:51 PM
Do you mean how will I correlate the Leica M6 meter with a spot meter. I don't know but the more I use my M6's the more I come to rely on thier meters and the results, by and large are as expected so maybe I don't need a spot meter after all. Does that make sense?

Yes it makes a lot of sense which is why I asked the question. But I assume there is reason for you wanting a spot meter. And if you get one, then you have to know how to apply its readings accurately otherwise it's of no use. The tried and tested way of applying them is by using the zone system which largely works for 35mm film. And having calibrated film dev, then you will know exactly how much to change exposure from the metered reading.

Martin Aislabie
1st March 2009, 11:38 AM
Kenneth, Robert White are selling the Kenko 2100 with a 1deg Spot Meter for 195+VAT - http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1886&PT_ID=439

Kenko have taken over the manufacture of Minolta meters

Minolta meters were always very well regarded

The 2100 seems to everything you could possibly want in a meter - but whether it comes at the expsense of day to day functionality I cannot say - I have never used one.

Martin

kennethcooke
1st March 2009, 05:32 PM
Kenneth, Robert White are selling the Kenko 2100 with a 1deg Spot Meter for 195+VAT - http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1886&PT_ID=439

Kenko have taken over the manufacture of Minolta meters

Minolta meters were always very well regarded

The 2100 seems to everything you could possibly want in a meter - but whether it comes at the expsense of day to day functionality I cannot say - I have never used one.

MartinThanks for that Martin and yes I think you are right, on the face of it, it looks as though it will do the job but on reflection, I am not sure I need one as I seem to be able to manipulate my M6 camera meter to analyse the shadow detail effectively.