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alexmuir
22nd May 2014, 09:11 PM
Does anyone know of a replacement of similar size that gives 2.6volts, or close to that? I'm trying to use a Nikkorex 8 cine camera. I only just realised it needed a meter battery! I had assumed it was a selenium meter. It can be used manually, but it would be nice to have the auto exposure working.
Alex.

Tony Marlow
22nd May 2014, 09:49 PM
Small Battery Company do a replacement but it is 3 volts but they do an adaptor to reduce it down to 2.7 volts. Check their website and put PX14 in the display box to get their details.

Tony

alexmuir
22nd May 2014, 10:47 PM
Thanks, Tony. I'll have a look.
Alex

Sababamovies
12th October 2019, 08:37 PM
just got my first Nikkorex-8 today. The only available replacement for the meter's battery is the Exell A14PX, look here:
http://www.batteriesinaflash.com/exell-alkaline-battery-a14px-replaces-v14pxa-a14px-px14a-tr112-epx14
Problem is: 3 volts instead of the original 2.7 volts.
So what I did to get the correct voltage is I just put the 2 WeinCell MRB625 that were in my Nikon F Photomic meter (2 x 1.35 = 2.7 volt) and adjusted the remaining 3mm in height with 2 small coins.
Automatic aperture now works perfect.
What does not work is the motor, maybe because the old 4 AA batteries have leaked inside. Any idea how to fix that? thanks

alexmuir
12th October 2019, 09:21 PM
That sounds like a good solution for the meter battery. I’ve used the one you mentioned, and it seems to work as well. Another alternative is two of the 675 hearing aid batteries. They are nominally 1.4V each, so quite close to original spec, and very cheap. On my last outing I used a Sekonic L308s meter that has a cine scale. That also works, setting your aperture manually.
I’ve been lucky with the two examples I own, as the motors worked fine. I did have an apparently dead Nikkorex Zoom8. It came to life, however, after cleaning the battery contacts, and repeatedly pressing the trigger. I think that two things can affect operation. Battery terminals needing cleaned/repaired, and dried up lubricant causing the drive to stick. I have another Zoom8 that also works, so I suspect the motors are quite resilient. The Nikkorex8 battery chamber can be removed, making cleaning or repair easier. Nikon products are quite well thought out that way. I found the same situation in one of their modern flashes, which made repair after battery leakage much easier. I hope you get yours fixed. It’s a great little camera.
Alex.


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Sababamovies
13th October 2019, 12:07 AM
Thanks Alex, I will try to remove the battery chamber and see if there are signs of leakage inside. Should the motor normally run even when no film is loaded yet, or do you need to load a film for the motor to run?
Ruben

alexmuir
13th October 2019, 09:43 AM
Hi Ruben. It should run without film. Looking at mine, I would think that battery leakage damage might be limited to the chamber itself and outer casing. There are 4 screws on the base of the chamber which hold it in place. It might be worth removing it to have a look inside.
It occurred to me that the trigger switch could be a possible issue. My cameras are the 8F model (reflex finder). The switch is dual action with a lock. If you press it in, the meter and auto exposure is activated. To start the motor, you keep pressing in, and pull it downwards. To lock, you pull it out when the motor is running. Apologies if you already know that. The switch appears the same on the non-reflex version. If it works to activate the meter, you would think it might also be ok for the motor.
I would make sure the AA contacts are clean, scraped if necessary to reveal fresh metal, then insert fresh batteries and keep trying the trigger. If the switch contacts are dirty through age/ lack of use, this might might bring it back to life without dismantling. If all else fails, you could open it up to investigate. It looks quite easy to get the front chrome cover off, although you would probably have to have the trigger in the lower position to do this.
It’s likely to be quite simple inside, and the fault might be obvious. Professional repair would, I think, be uneconomical.
Alex


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Sababamovies
15th October 2019, 11:51 AM
I will try what you suggest and let you know.
The trigger works to activate the meter, but not to activate the motor,, so it is likely old oil/grease that is blocking the motor. I am just not sure if I will be able to put everything back together after I open it...

alexmuir
15th October 2019, 10:59 PM
You could try locking the meter movement by turning the dial to ‘C’, then giving the camera a bit of a shake as you switch the motor on. Sometimes years of inactivity make the mechanism reluctant to move. A bit of vibration can help. Don’t bang it off the table though 😮
Alex


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Sababamovies
16th October 2019, 01:56 AM
Hahaha. I think I might just bang it off the table and buy another one, after all I only paid $10 for it, LOL...
Seriously now, I will open it this week and let you know what I find in there.
Ruben

Sababamovies
16th October 2019, 02:10 PM
well, after opening it, everything looks very clean. So I don't know what it could be, a dead motor, a dried up broken rubber belt?.... Since I don't have an Ammeter to test, I will take it for repair. Thanks for your help

Sababamovies
17th October 2019, 08:00 PM
Alex,
I opened it, and it looks very clean everywhere. So, since the trigger works for the light meter but not for the motor, could be either the motor is dead, or the rubber belt has dried out and crumbled. Either way, I'm not gonna venture to touch it, this is beyond my capacities. All of the Nikkorex-8 cameras now on Ebay being sold "As Is", I have decided to take it to repair. This might take some time, and with no guarantee of success. I'll keep you informed in due time. Thanks a lot for your help.
Ruben

alexmuir
17th October 2019, 09:21 PM
Hi Ruben. I’m sorry you couldn’t get it going. Perhaps it can be fixed economically if it was quick and easy to open up. It’s usually the time involved in dismantling cameras that pushes the repair cost up. The two I have were sold ‘as seen’, so I must have been lucky. I was tempted to buy one that’s on UK eBay just now for 99p, just to open it up. Apparently it’s motor works, but cosmetically it is horrible.
I hope you get it going, or find a working example.
Alex


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Sababamovies
7th November 2019, 04:28 PM
Hi Ruben. I’m sorry you couldn’t get it going. Perhaps it can be fixed economically if it was quick and easy to open up. It’s usually the time involved in dismantling cameras that pushes the repair cost up. The two I have were sold ‘as seen’, so I must have been lucky. I was tempted to buy one that’s on UK eBay just now for 99p, just to open it up. Apparently it’s motor works, but cosmetically it is horrible.
I hope you get it going, or find a working example.
Alex


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Hi Alex, I got the Nikkorex fixed for a reasonable price, and it is now working. I just have a question. When the exposure meter is closed (positioned on C) the lens diaphragm is wide open. Is this the way it should be? I would think the diaphragm should to be completely closed, no?

alexmuir
7th November 2019, 04:31 PM
Hi Ruben.
I’ll have to look when I get home. The position locks the mechanism to avoid damage when the camera is being carried. I’ll check and report back later tonight.
Alex.


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alexmuir
7th November 2019, 09:54 PM
I’ve had a look. The diaphragm should be fully open at the C setting. Turning from C to M, it closes to its minimum, and opens as you continue to turn the dial, reaching maximum just before the A setting.
You have to be careful using the C setting. I forgot , and exposed part of a film thinking it was on A. It was heavily over exposed as a result.
Alex


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Sababamovies
7th November 2019, 10:27 PM
Then everything is ok, my Nikkorex is now fully working, I can start shooting
Thanks a lot Alex.

Sababamovies
24th November 2019, 05:39 PM
I’ve had a look. The diaphragm should be fully open at the C setting. Turning from C to M, it closes to its minimum, and opens as you continue to turn the dial, reaching maximum just before the A setting.
You have to be careful using the C setting. I forgot , and exposed part of a film thinking it was on A. It was heavily over exposed as a result.
Alex


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Hi Alex,
The Fomapan 100 B&W film I ordered just arrived. Based on your experience with the Nikkorex, any advice before I start shooting? Thanks

alexmuir
24th November 2019, 05:59 PM
That’s great, Ruben. I think you can load it up and start shooting. It’s a very simple camera to use, and easy to hold steady. Remember that the reversal film has a very limited latitude, so try to assess contrast in a scene, and aim for low contrast and even lighting. Unlike negative materials, exposure is normally biased towards any strong highlights, such as a bright sky. If you have used reversal materials in still cameras, you will know how to get the best exposures. Over exposure is to be avoided.
It’s a strange coincidence that you are in contact about movie cameras today. On Friday I received a really interesting new camera. It’s an Agfa Movexzoom for Standard 8 film. It appears to be in great condition, so I’m hoping to use it soon.
Good luck with your filming!
Alex.


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Sababamovies
24th November 2019, 07:40 PM
Thank you