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Bob
Administrator
Registered: August 2008 Location: London(ish) Posts: 2,746
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Fri, 26, April, 2013 4:16pm
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Difficult to say from a scan, but I notice the rebate is grey and so is the text (albeit obviously lighter) in the scan. If this is deep black in reality with white text then all would seem basically OK. If the rebate is grey then you may have over developed but 4 mins @24C does not seem too excessive, though quite long compared to 4.5m @ 20C. 4 mins may be a bit short in general to allow for good intermittent agitation, but it's unlikely to be a major issue.
The temp of the stop and fixer is not too important, as long as sufficient fixing has occurred and they are not so hot as to cause damage (reticulation etc) which is unlikely. There will be a fog over the whole negative if the fixing was very insufficient. If this is the case, you can simply re-fix the negs as even partial fixing provides a lot of protection.
What I do is contact print the neg so the rebate is just about as black as the area around the negative which receives the full light from the enlarger (the so-called "minimum black time") and then look at what the highlights are doing.
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skellum
Friend
Registered: December 2011 Location: Isle of Lewis Posts: 1,330
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Fri, 26, April, 2013 4:27pm
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If the negatives have a 'milky' green colour in patches they are underfixed.
Wet thoroughly, refix and wash. Real pain to dry if they're already cut into strips. Of course, if cut, it means you can refix just one and compare to confirm/ eliminate the cause.
Also, 4 minutes is very short- just the time it takes to fill and empty the tank become a significant fraction of total time.
Try the 1+14 dilution, which gives a more comfortable working time (with bonus greater economy and highlight control in contrasty conditions).
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SeanOD
Friend
Registered: March 2013 Location: Dublin Posts: 6
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Sat, 27, April, 2013 2:40pm
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Thank you both so much for that very helpful advice. Longer development time seems like a good idea. It should give more time for everything.
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Richard Gould
Friend
Registered: December 2008 Location: Jersey Channel Islands Posts: 5,433
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I generally find that with Ilford films they need longer development than suggested in any developer,even D76/id11 I find an extra minute or two helps, I tend to find that HP5, the ilford film I tended to use BF,(Before Fomapan) was a very low contrast film at the suggested time in any developer I used, but give 2 or 3 minutes more, depending on the developer, and the negative is more to my liking
Richard
------------------------------ jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com
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SeanOD
Friend
Registered: March 2013 Location: Dublin Posts: 6
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Thanks for that Richard. I'm really only experimenting at the moment. I'll certainly bear your suggestion in mind.
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photomi7ch
Friend
Registered: January 2009 Location: East Midlands Posts: 2,516
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Sat, 8, June, 2013 10:56am
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I agree with Richard. I'm developing my FP4+ for 2 min more than suggested and some times longer. If I think my metering is off. Make sure you fix fully other wise you will get a milky foggy look to your negs
------------------------------ Mitch
http://photomi7ch.blogspot.com/
If you eliminate the impossible whatever remains no matter how improbable must be the truth.
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