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I have an orbital developing tank. I had streaks from the fins on every negative. I just removed the fins. You might need more than a stanley knife to do it though. I used a modeller's saw. First I tried cutting the fin off from the underside in one piece - this is not very easy to do neetly. The other I cut off from the top in three sections - diagonals then cut off the bit left in the middle - much easier. A bit of emery paper finished off the job. No more marks! :)
Whilst on the subject, the other modifications I made were the little round stick-on feet in the base - that works well. However, I replaced the red "golf tees" with platic Printed Circuit Board (PCB) mounting pillars which have larger "heads". This stops the negatives from occasionally riding up over the top of each other. |
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I went with the door buffers as Dave suggested. After cutting around one dome I realised that the domes are pre cut inside the sheet :slap: I've never come across this before but hey ho.
Because these are much smaller than Trevor's I used more than I first imagined to. Thank you to Trevor and Dave. Not long now and I can get it fired up. |
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Looks the ticket Gavin hope all goes well.
If you find the film starts to drift over the little red pegs that come with the Orbital there are several suggestions on the Forum for over coming this problem. Adrian mentions PCB pegs, others have used match sticks, etc. I fashioned a set from 3mm acrylic rod bought on Ebay for a few 'bob'. I than caped the rod with 'tiddly wink' counters someone gave me. They are 25mm tall and each counter was drilled using a 2.5mm drill. The rods were then carefully filed at the tip to ensure a tight fit. No glue was used. |
Thank you Trevor. Can I ask, are the new pegs 25mm high from the tray bottom or 25mm pre fit? I imagine post fit but I'm crossing the T's here.
My apologies for making your article a thread Trevor but hopefully this process will benefit new readers. |
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this site is a mine of information ..thanks FADU and all the members
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