As Skellum has clearly described, proper implementation of the zone system isn't possible with roll film where all the negatives get the same development.
However; A spot meter plus a knowledge of zone placement can be very useful for roll film. For example to get the key element of a scene properly exposed, or ensure that important shadow area doesn't end up black. It is admittedly tricky to judge which zone things come in, but in my mind, moderate shadow is exposed 2 stops under the spot meter reading, grass as read, and a 'white caucasian' face 2 stops over the reading.
To be honest I find that careful incident readings work well most of the time.
One final thought on light meters in general, which I know some forum members will disagree with. Most old light meters seem to be inaccurate and unreliable, they caused me a lot of grief in my early attempts, and I wasted a lot of money on various iconic models. Buying a new Sekonic L-308s was my best investment. It's small and accurate, and better than smartphone apps (The exposures they give are geared towards digital, not film exposures.)
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