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#1
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Studio flash advice
Hi,
I have two projects that need a studio flash setup. Has anyone any tips about what you need, stuff not needed, any advice? Robert |
#2
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I think it depends on your subject matter. I bought a 300 watt flash head with umbrella, soft box and stands to do portraits and still-life. I have a number of flashguns, and a softbox for them, as a second light. I have used them, and they provide an adequate setup for these subjects, but I frequently resort to natural, or ambient light. I would suggest trying available light first to see if it suits. Apart from the cost of studio flash, you have to consider storage. If it is necessary to have flash, I would recommend buying up to date equipment. I also think you should go for higher powered units. You can always turn them down.
Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#3
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Thanks Alex,
I am gathering information, it would be a big purchase for me. One project is of groups of people (rock bands) in a large ex industrial space... Lots of area to cover! Robert |
#4
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I'm not sure how effective or rather practical studio flash would be. You talks about wanting to light a large area.
The two criteria are; first what format camera (this is was also posted first on the LF forum) inc choice of film speed and required working aperture, and second do you need to light the whole area or can you move the lights around as you work. Either way you are going to need far more power than the typical small studio flash units and I would suggest looking at flask pack units, like Bowens Quad 2000 and equivalents. I have 5 or 6 studio flash units, largest has a maximum power 800, but have borrowed or hired at least two far more powerful flash packs for larger projects where I need to light a wide space shooting groups of models (for catalogues) or cars etc. Personally having shot rather a lot of rock bands my approach would be use MF and fill-in flash from a large hammer-head flash if you need flexibly and to move around reasonably spontaneously. Studio flash is going to confine you to small areas and moving kit around to others with a band there is fraught with issues Ian |
#5
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Have you thought about hiring the lights? Flash Centre Leeds does Elinchrom and Calumet do Profoto and Bowen’s. Probably get some good advice there too.
__________________
regards, Tony |
#6
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Two books I found useful were ‘The Hotshoe Diaries’ by Joe McNally and one by Bryan Petersen. I can’t recall that title, but google him and you’ll get it. Both deal with using flashguns, but cover big subjects like bands, etc. They’re worth a look for an alternative approach.
Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#7
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Quote:
Good tip, I am certainly not averse to hiring, Flash Centre stuff is 100% Pro stuff. At a price ... I would need several 2 to 3 day hires for the bands shoot and also to shoot portraits: 5 or 6 sessions, maybe 12 to 15 days. Prohibitive for me. Anyhow, thanks for the ideas re film speeds, lens choice etc. I will do some more thinkin'! Robert |
#8
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Check out the strobist website. It's a great resource about this kind of thing. However it is written for digital users. I taught myself studio flash using his website alone.
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#9
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Unless you describe the projects how can anyone advise?
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#10
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First, light the space. Then light the face. Now you work out how. Start from the end result required, and then pick your route from where you are, to where you want to be.
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