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> Amoeba on my negs. Using Bellini C41. |
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#1
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Amoeba on my negs. Using Bellini C41.
Now developed four films using the Bellini C41 kit. No major disasters, but on the last two films I developed, I seem to be getting "amoeba" appearing on the negatives. I wonder if this is down to the final step, dunking the film in stabiliser. The instructions from Bellini say do this for 3 minutes, with the comment "continuous mix". The guidelines I got from Nik & Trick (NT Photoworks) say to remove remove the film from the spirals and immerse it for 10 to 30 seconds, which is quite a difference. The first film I did, I wasn't ready with a tub, so I just poured the stabiliser into the tank, and it worked OK. The second film, I removed the film from the spiral and immersed it in a tub for 3 minutes. Not so good, and I didn't like the way the film stuck to itself, so on the last two films I left the films on the spirals, and just immersed them in the stabiliser. These came out worst of all, although one of the films may have been in the stabiliser for about 4 minutes. As instructed, I did not wash the film in anything after the stabiliser, and used a squeegee before hanging the films up to dry. See attached for an example of what I mean, particularly at the top right. Any suggestions?
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#2
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Have a look at this thread, particularly post no. 4 there. Searching "Bellini" will give you a lot more too (but not too much, I hope).
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#3
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Amoeba
Thanks Michael. Next time I'll try it in the tank, but agitating continuously for 3 minutes, which seems to be what Bellini are suggesting.
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#4
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RicEll, what I ended up doing was (with 35mm in a Jobo small tank) a first 3 minute stabiliser rinse, inverting continuously. I then discarded the resulting froth and gave three water rinses at 38 degrees, ten inversions each, followed by a final 1 minute stabiliser bath with no agitation or inversion. All very speculative but I wasn't bothered by those amoebae after that. No stabiliser was re-used, as the kit has plenty for that procedure with 35mm. I used de-ionised water to make up the stabiliser. Medium or large format film would need a re-think (I did process one roll of 120 in among).
I had compared notes with Alex. We had both agreed that N&T's notes were a bit off. All the best for the rest of your processing with this set of the kit. |
#5
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Better, but not perfect
I developed another film. This time I rinsed the film in water three times, inverting the tank 10 times for each rinse. Then I added the stabilizer and let it stand for 3 minutes.
The results were much better, but I still get faint blue rings in places, which are sometimes almost perfectly circular. Does anyone else get this, or know what is causing it? See attached for an example (red rectangles were added by me to show problem areas). |
#6
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Quote:
Just a very long shot here but given how perfect they are, could these be scanning artefacts? Under a loupe and against a diffused white light are these visible on the negs Mike |
#7
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Cannot see rings on negative
Hmm. Well I don't have a decent loupe handy, but I improvised with my mobile and a white screen, and I can't see the rings on the negative. I'll try scanning again and see if I get similar results.
However, the rings do seem to appear in different places for each exposure, so it might not be repeatable. |
#8
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RicEll, your best option now might be to get a good lab print of that negative, at a decent size. I think that the condition of that print would reassure you.
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#9
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Quote:
Mike |
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