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> Using a sulphite bath |
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Using a sulphite bath
Reading Michael’s “Bergger” post led me to read their recommended processing sheet which includes the following:
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TIA |
#2
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Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
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I have never done this either for film or for paper. Mind you I use RC exclusively. For FB the evidence suggests that it is worthwhile in terms of appreciably reducing wash times
Mike |
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I think it is referring to Kodak Hypo Clear, or similar wash aid products. You wash the film in water for a few minutes, then soak in the product, followed by a short wash. It reduces wash times if you use the method of washing in running water. The alternative washing procedure is referred to as the ‘Ilford method’, where you fill and empty the tank successively, agitating each time. This uses much less water, and saves time. With that method, I don’t use Hypo Clear.
I have to say that I have negatives made 30 years ago, washed in running water for 30 mins or less, without strict temperature control or wash aid that still look fine. I think if I was minded to ensure the permenance of my negatives, I would be more strict about my washing procedure. If, however, your photography is purely a hobby (like mine), then simpler procedures might suffice. Alex. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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Having seen the original thread about the Bergger film, I think I can say that the sulphite bath won’t alter the image quality. The anti-halation layer should come out during the processing and washing. I’ve never heard of Hypo Clear, or similar, being required for that purpose.
Alex. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#6
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Dave, I did buy Sodium sulphite from the supplier here in Ireland, along with my film. As Richard and Alex both say, it has the same use really as HCA. I found 10% a bit steep but have now used two small plastic teaspoonsful per 250ml water, just poured into the tank immediately after the second fix and left for 3 minutes without agitation - followed by a normal Ilford cycle for washing. We're talking film here.
I've used HCA with paper but never been entirely confident about measuring out small quantities from a Kodak packet, as the powder mix may not be consistent throughout the pack. Sodium sulphite, as a simple product, worries me less in that respect and I may move over to it too with paper. I did one roll of Pancro by the book and felt a right eejit. Happy enough with what I outline above, though. |
#7
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Quote:
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#8
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Thanks everyone! Back in the 70s when I started I only used Tri-X or HP5 with Ilford (Ilfosol?) film developer. Simples!
On returning to the fold in 2015 and more particularly now, I find that there are a plethora of different options for every single variable from film to developer and through the whole process. Just shows the difference t’internet makes - back then I only knew what I could glean from library books or reading AP in WHSmiths! |
#9
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Sodium Sulphite or HCA hs little to no effect with films or RC papers unless you are grossly overloading your fixer.
It's far more beneficial with Fibre based papers where intermediary Silver/Thiosuphate complexes form weak bonds with the cellulose of the paper base. Somewhere I have a 40+ year old schematic I drew up of the equilibrium reactions involved, and you'd need to be a degree level chemist to undersatnd what's going on. Basically as the Silver level builds up in the fixer it becomes less efficient, and not all the Silver halide/Thiosulphate reactions go to completion, adding the Sulphite helps take the reaction towards completion. Best practice is two bath fixing with FB papers. Ian |
#10
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Thanks Ian. That’s very useful. I shall keep it in mind when I test out some fibre based papers. I’ve been using RC recently but a fellow photographer has offered me a small quantity of FB paper to play with so your advice is very timely.
Cheers |
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