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  #1  
Old 22nd February 2015, 10:39 PM
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AlonewithmyBW AlonewithmyBW is offline
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Default Basic, starter guide to toning sought!

Am fascinated by the amazing pictures in the galleries with the wonderful tones etc. being produced.

Have read a couple of posts and am finding it a little impenetrable, but equally fascinating.

I am sure there must be one, and I am hoping I can be steered toward a starters guide to toning. Now I mean really basic, proper "toning for dummies" kind of thing!

Any suggestions?
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Old 22nd February 2015, 11:31 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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I haven't tried to do any as yet and others who have will no doubt have good ABC type advice to give but I'd repeat the advice I gave the other day which is to try and get hold of the Tony Worobiec book on toning, called "Toning and Hand Colouring"

It might be worth saying which toning you are particularly interested in as a starter i.e. sepia, selenium, copper etc

The easiest start is probably staining i.e. tea or a proprietary but easy one such as antique dye from RK Photographic

Mike
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Old 22nd February 2015, 11:43 PM
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There are two types of toning I have done which are easy to try. Selenium involves buying the toner, diluting it with water and immersing the print in it until you get the desired tone. All that is done in daylight after the print has been developed, fixed and washed as normal.
The second type is Sepia. I bought the Foma kit on the recommendation of Richard Gould. Again, everything is done after normal process and wash, and in daylight. This process uses two baths, bleach and toner, mixed from liquid concentrate. The print is put in bleach first, then washed, then into toner, then given a final wash.
If you fancy either of these, get the chemicals and give it a go. The diluted solutions can be re-used, so you'll need some storage bottles, and some extra trays for the toning baths.
Alex.
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Old 22nd February 2015, 11:45 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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I should have said you must wash the print thoroughly after Selenium as its quite a toxic chemical. Rubber gloves are a good idea, and eye protection if you're prone to causing splashes!
Alex
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Old 23rd February 2015, 09:39 AM
Paulographic Paulographic is offline
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I had a copy of Tony Worobiec's book you could have had but think I must have passed it on as it's not on the shelf.
I have "Toning and Tinting Made Easy " Volume One by Melvin Cambettiie Davies, A Hove Foto book which you can have for the postage. I've digested everything in it.
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Old 23rd February 2015, 11:14 AM
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there's not really such a thing because toning of any sort is a full on process with the capacity to ruin your print. You either get it right or you you get a bad result which means ruined print.

The two books that you should get are Tim Rudmans Lith printing course and his Toning book. Both not cheap but they'll be all you ever need. And I'd get them soon because prices will only go up as they become more scarce so if it turns out you don't want them you'll be able to sell and get your money back.

Search Amazon for Tim Rudman.
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Old 23rd February 2015, 11:40 AM
Paulographic Paulographic is offline
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I also have a spare copy of Tim Rudmans "The World of Lith Printing"
I decide that Lith wasn't really for me, I prefer toning and possibly some hand colouring in the future.
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  #8  
Old 23rd February 2015, 12:58 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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Toning, especialy sepia toning, is fairly easy, but the paper plays a very large part, especialy with RC paper, in fact there are only two make of RC paper that I know of that tone well.if you want to tone then I suggest you get hold of some Kentmere VC select, the best toning paper around, the other being Fotospeed RCVC, Ilford MG will not tone well, and to start with try sepia, the easiest to master, and the best kit I now of is Fomatoner sepia, available from Silverprint and Process supplies, You dilute the Bleach, or part 1, twice as much as the instructions state, I use 5oml of concentrate to 950ml of water, and dilute the toner the same, ignore the 1 in 9 dilution for both solutions, it is far too strong and you lose the control, then with a wet print (soak in water for a few minutes if using a print made a while before toning) bleach it till most of the image is gone and what is left is brown, then wash the print under running water until the bleach is washed off, maybe a minute or two, then place in the toner and rock the dish constantly until the image re develops as a sepia toned print, if you decide to, say, want a less deep tone or want only the highlights toned then reduce the bleach , once you have mastered Sepia, one of the easiest to master, then you can try other toners such as blue, or even split toning, where you perhaps partialy sepia tone a print then blue tone a print.If you decide to try blue toning then it is a one try mix, normally part 1.2,3 mixed to one solution, and again reduce the dilutions by at least half as the full strength blue can be very overwhelimg, and remember, toning does not suit every image, but with the right image it can be stunning.
Hope this helps, good luck and like most of photography practice makes perfect
Richard
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  #9  
Old 23rd February 2015, 03:28 PM
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David Lingham David Lingham is offline
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James.
I endorse everything Richard has just said. If you can try and get hold of Tim Rudmans Toning Book: here

http://www.masterphotographerstoningbook.com
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  #10  
Old 26th February 2015, 07:20 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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There is some useful toning information in Eddie Ephraums book, Creative Elements. It is an excellent book for advice about landscape work. It should be easily available. Also, a book called B&W Photo Lab Printing Special Effects by Julien Busselle contains advice about toning. Again, it's a useful book if you fancy doing something a bit out of the ordinary. Charity shops can be a good source of out of print books about traditional photography and darkroom work.
Alex
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