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  #31  
Old 3rd August 2009, 12:16 PM
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Dave and Bob - A post of mine on 22 July already addressed that issue, as far as CHS 50 and APH09 are concerned. I should think that you could extrapolate from my experience there.
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  #32  
Old 3rd August 2009, 12:59 PM
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Trevor Crone Trevor Crone is offline
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I think it somewhat depends on the developer used. Something like Rodinal or HC110 are quite robust developers and remain active at quite high dilution's even when there is a relatively small amount of concentrate in solution.

From my own experience with the Orbital I mainly use Rodinal developer diluted 1:25 to give me a WS of 150ml which contains 6ml of concentrate. My 4x5 and 8x10 negatives are certainly well developed. Processing temperature is 21*C and I've used both continuous manual rotation as well as motorised.

I've tried reducing the WS to 130ml with identical results. But this is a visual comparison (of neg and print) not checked with a densitometer.
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  #33  
Old 3rd August 2009, 01:10 PM
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No thanks! I use a set of old Kodak deep tanks and work in the dark. I have an orbital processor (still not converted as yet with blobs) but I have not plucked up the courage to give it ago. I will certainly go on the safe side with about 150mm of dev though.

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  #34  
Old 3rd August 2009, 02:42 PM
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As a matter of interest, here are pictures of the two mats I have tried out in the processor. The cross-shaped one was cut down from a single sheet and I have no more material; but, if anyone is interested, I could easily make duplicates of the diamond-shaped one. Its only disadvantage is that it obviously needs washing more thoroughly after use (I did try hypo clearing agent but that may be a bit over the top). I hope that the angles I used give you some idea of the thickness and structure of each mat.

They are completely removable and seem to me a reasonable start for experimenting.
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  #35  
Old 3rd August 2009, 02:53 PM
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I hve been using an motorized Patterson Orbital for about 18 months now and am very happy with it. I had problems with the vanes causing uneven development in sky areas so I removed the vanes. To save scoring the tank I put tiny blobs of fish tank sealant pin head in size on the base of the tank. I use 150ml of developer (Pyro) and 200 ml of stop then fix.

So far it has performed better than my Yankee and HP combi tank, it takes 150 ml of developer my other tanks take 1 litre.

One problem I have had is the film escaping from the plastic pegs if I tip the tank over too far when emptying the chemistry.

The only snag I can see, is if I want to process colour, I will have to invent some means of maintaining temperature (any suggestions?)

nn
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  #36  
Old 3rd August 2009, 03:11 PM
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Joanna Carter Joanna Carter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numnutz View Post
The only snag I can see, is if I want to process colour, I will have to invent some means of maintaining temperature (any suggestions?)
I would say trying to maintain 38C in an Orbital could be quite tricky. I managed to pick up a secondhand Jobo ATL1500 for around 400; worth every penny! If I buy a 1ltr pack of Tetenal, it costs me around 1.40 per sheet, whereas a 5ltr pack will cost me around 60p per sheet. the results are astoundingly reliable - only 250 sheets of film to process before I can say it is saving me money
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  #37  
Old 3rd August 2009, 03:34 PM
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It seems that I was wrong and being over-cautious when I expressed the idea that the film might need to be fully immersed and this would require 600mls of developer.
I just developed 4 sheets in 300mls and they came out fine.As for using any less than this, well I amwith Dave on the idea that film is too precious to risk by stinting on developer. When I have walked five miles over the North York Moors to get a picture and five miles back to the car, uphill both ways, in a snowstorm, carrying a heavy 5 x 4 camera and tripod, I might not baulk at using an extra 6mls of Rodinal to be on the safe side-even though I am a Yorkshireman.

Alan Clark
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  #38  
Old 3rd August 2009, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Clark View Post
It seems that I was wrong and being over-cautious when I expressed the idea that the film might need to be fully immersed and this would require 600mls of developer.
I just developed 4 sheets in 300mls and they came out fine.As for using any less than this, well I amwith Dave on the idea that film is too precious to risk by stinting on developer. When I have walked five miles over the North York Moors to get a picture and five miles back to the car, uphill both ways, in a snowstorm, carrying a heavy 5 x 4 camera and tripod, I might not baulk at using an extra 6mls of Rodinal to be on the safe side-even though I am a Yorkshireman.

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  #39  
Old 3rd August 2009, 04:20 PM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numnutz View Post
I hve been using an motorized Patterson Orbital for about 18 months now and am very happy with it. I had problems with the vanes causing uneven development in sky areas so I removed the vanes. To save scoring the tank I put tiny blobs of fish tank sealant pin head in size on the base of the tank. I use 150ml of developer (Pyro) and 200 ml of stop then fix.

So far it has performed better than my Yankee and HP combi tank, it takes 150 ml of developer my other tanks take 1 litre.

One problem I have had is the film escaping from the plastic pegs if I tip the tank over too far when emptying the chemistry.

The only snag I can see, is if I want to process colour, I will have to invent some means of maintaining temperature (any suggestions?)

nn
The Paterson unit was designed for colour print developing. Originally it would have been supplied with a card slide-rule style calculator to help you work out presoak temperature and time, so that average process temperature was maintained. I have developed RA4 paper and its predecessor, was it called EP2 or some such.
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  #40  
Old 3rd August 2009, 04:21 PM
Alan Clark Alan Clark is offline
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Dave I could have laid it on for a couple more paragraphs, but I think you get the picture!
Alan
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