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> Which papers from these? |
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#1
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Which papers from these?
When I bought my first log of dark room equipment I got a large microwave box full of paper. This was the contents:
Ilford Box MG1V RC deluxe 9x14cm Box IB3.1P 10x8inch Box B1-1P soft glossy 10x8inch 2 packs MGRC 8x10inch 2 packs Bromide B2-24K normal/semi matt 10x12inch 4 packs IB2-24K 10x12inch Kodak Box Bromesko IFL.2D normal 10x12inch Box Bromesko IFL.1D soft 10x12inch 2 packs Bromesko WL.2D silk 6.5x8.5inch 2 packs Bromide WSG.3D 10x12inch 1 pack Bromide WSG.2S 8x10inch (projection transparent paper) Agfa 1 pack Brovira BW119 extra white lustre 8x10inch Paterson 1 pack Acugrade 5x7inch Kentmere 1 box D.WT2 glossy 8x10inch 1 box FBVC glossy 8x10inch & 2 massive rolls (240') of 4 inch wide paper for doing batches of 6"x4" prints. Not sure of the brand as they are in sealed black bags at the moment. I donated one of the rolls to a school but kept the other and since then was given another box of Ilford paper which I have used for my first prints. Not having any experience of wet printing other than my first attempt and wanting to keep any papers that are hard to get hold of etc till I am much better which of the above (or all of them) are disposable enough to practice with? Are there any that you would say "Don't waste that keep that for something special".
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Sorry for all the questions but I am totally new to all this and it isn't as easy as it looks Been heavily into digital for several years and just starting with the art of film and developing the film and prints myself. I am here to learn and to share with others. |
#2
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No shortage of paper then : I don't know enought about most of the paper to comment on better or worse etc but as long as you use the same paper for test prints as for final prints then the make doesn't matter. Once you have the 240ft roll "nailed down" for correct exposure then this will be ideal for 6x4 prints. You have got nearly 5x100 boxes full!
I have no idea of the age of some of this stuff but age-fogging( a greyness in the paper) is possible. You might want to test for this by taking a small piece out of each packet preferably in the dark and placing it straight into fixer and wash. If it looks white after this and not in any way grey then there is no age-fogging. If there is some fogging then some benzotriazole in the developer might cure it as well as making the paper a little colder. You can buy as powder from one or two of our sponsors or liquid from Peter Hogan also a sponsor. Mike |
#3
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Quote:
Very helpful as always! It was more a case of "Don't use XX for practicing as you can't get it anymore!" etc..... I really should be practicing with the roll instead of 10"x8" Ilford paper that I have been using !!
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Sorry for all the questions but I am totally new to all this and it isn't as easy as it looks Been heavily into digital for several years and just starting with the art of film and developing the film and prints myself. I am here to learn and to share with others. |
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The only paper that you list that you can still get is the MG1v,all the rest,although great papers, are long gone, sadly,but you can still get the acugrade in another guise, it was made by Foma,Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com Last edited by Richard Gould; 7th December 2010 at 05:26 PM. Reason: forgot my papers |
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Ok thanks. Of the ones that cannot now be bought are there any that I should keep for a special occasion or is it just a case that everything is just normal paper and just to use it as I see fit.
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Sorry for all the questions but I am totally new to all this and it isn't as easy as it looks Been heavily into digital for several years and just starting with the art of film and developing the film and prints myself. I am here to learn and to share with others. |
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I would keep the kodak and agfa for something special, they were very special,the Bromesko was a great warm tone paper, the ilford and kentmere I would use as every day paper,Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
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The Brovira BW119 could still be good even if it's really old. I have some Brovira graded papers from the early to mid 1970s that are fine. Warm tone Agfa papers from that era did not fare at all well when I tested them a couple of years ago.
The "W" indicates fairly low contrast. EW extra weak W weak S half way between W and N (i think) N normal K half way between N and H (i think) H hard EH extra hard (This was marvelous, Very Contrasty!) Last edited by Stocky; 7th December 2010 at 08:04 PM. Reason: addition |
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Thanks everyone. Looking forward to my crash course from the person I bought my first lot of kit from then to pick out some of my images to print. I am really looking forward to it.
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Sorry for all the questions but I am totally new to all this and it isn't as easy as it looks Been heavily into digital for several years and just starting with the art of film and developing the film and prints myself. I am here to learn and to share with others. |
#9
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Addvice with old photographic papers
Hi there,
the material you have is bound to be old and rather aged. If you add Benzotriazole to your developer this will counteract the effects of this aging (chemical fog) d.s.alle!@hotmail.com
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David, d.s.allen, fotograf dsallenberlin@gmail.com http://dsallen.carpentier-galerie.de |
#10
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[QUOTE=,but you can still get the acugrade in another guise, it was made by Foma,Richard[/QUOTE]
Thst sounds interesting, I used to like that paper. Thank for the tip re. benzotriazole. I've been given a stock of old paper from a retired pros. darkroom. Paul |
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