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> Having terrible luck with home B&W film development |
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#51
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I re-read all the FADU and Photo.net posts following Vania's plea for advice on plus-density streaks on negatives and I think the only remaining answer is poor mixing of HC110 syrup and layering in the tank.
When loaded in a spiral the film forms a cylinder with a vertical axis. When a Paterson or similar spiral is rotated, layering may not be disturbed. I would recommend four additions to your procedure: - use D-76, ID11 or diluted HC110 to achieve a dev time in excess of ten minutes. - Mix HC110 with a soup-spoon or similar-shaped paddle for quite some time. Move the paddle back and forth rather than round and round. Inspect the mix with a point-source light behind the (glass or glass-clear) vessel while stirring. - Use inversion agitation to break up layers - To dry film without marks - especially important for 35mm - because the back has no gelatine, put a dry top clip onto the drying line. Make a 1:200 solution of wetting agent - it doesn't have to be distilled water but avoid creating froth. Immerse the spiral and film for a few seconds, once again avoiding froth. Use the weighted bottom clip to withdraw the film(s). - Hang the film up, without touching the film. Wait, patiently. |
#52
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After following and reading this thread, I've come to the same conclusion as JOReynolds above.
I have to say that I'm not a user of this particular developer, but reading others descriptions of it, it does sound like a very thick viscous liquid, having been described as like honey in one of the posts. The best conclusion that I have come to, as stated, is that it really does require a REALLY GOOD stir to ensure that it is fully mixed into the water before use. Using a more dilute solution, as said, will probably also help. I hope that you finally manage to find a solution to using this developer, or as others have suggested, I would try D76 / ID11, which is a much used and a very good developer, which mixes easily. Terry S |
#53
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Quote:
Terry, HC110 is a very good developer but probably not the first choice for a beginner. It was the developer of choice for Ansel Adams and many other pro photographers. Originally Kodak made HC110 for commercial use (in machines) but it drifted down to home darkroom use - made popular by Ansel Adams of course. You do need to watch the dilutions and I would advise sticking to one method until some experience has been gained. It actuially mixes very easily in water at normal film developing temperature, just make sure you give it a good stir but no need to go OTT. Neil.
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"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#54
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Hc110
I have never used it even over the years I have been photographing. What are it's keeping qualities say in a half bottle, is it stable or does it 'go of'.
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#55
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John.
HC110 is like a syrup - care is needed when measuring small amounts. It keeps for ages becasue it is highly concentrated. It can be diluted down to a 'stock' but most work straight from the bottle. Once you get the hang of this - no problems at all. In fact it is a very versitile developer - akin to a liquid D76. The problem being discussed here doesn't sound like a dev mixing problem to me, the stock dev is not that difficult to mix. The problem sounds more like a contanimation issue and one that will be difficult to track down. Neil.
__________________
"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#56
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Quote:
Mike |
#57
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#58
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Quick follow-up:
I developed a roll using Ilford DD-X and could not reproduce these streaks. So it looks like this may be somehow related to my use of HC-110 - either inadequate mixing or something else. Before I claim victory, though, I'm going to develop another roll using DD-X to see if the results for my current roll were just a fluke. Stay tuned... |
#59
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Quote:
The later HC110 developers are a tad less syrupy but you still need to be careful measuring if using straight from the bottle. If you use a tall thin measuring cylinder the job is much easier - I have a couple that I keep just for that sort of job. I will stress there is no need to get over concerned about HC110's viscosity - it is not a problem - you just need to accept it and adapt. HC110 keeps for ages and the bottle I am using now must be around 3 years old. When I start a new litre of HC110 I always decant it into two 500ml brown glass bottles and keep a puff of gas over the top. The spare 500ml bottle is kept in my fridge until needed. Even if you were a tad sloppy with you HC110 mixing it would soon get 'mixed' when you do your agitation routine at the beging of the development. Neil.
__________________
"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#60
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But it does appear that this issue might be somehow related to my use of HC-110 since I did not see these streaks on the most recent roll I developed using Ilford DD-X. |
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