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> Getting the tape off 120 film |
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#21
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I find that it's better to tear the paper away from the film rather than the film from the paper, less chance of stress crescent marks.
If leaving on until dry snip the tape off before removing the film from the clip as there will be residual moisture in the tape which you don't want touching the dry emulsion. |
#22
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I use a Patterson two-reel tank that takes a litre with two 120 reels in it. I was just trying to be a cheap-skate. I use 1:33 or 1:31 HC110, pretty dilute so not sure I'd chance 500ml on 1 reel - mind you I've got some film testing coming up soon, so I could give it a go
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#23
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Like Skellum I find it a struggle sometimes to get the last bit of a 36 exposure 135 onto the reel. 120 just goes on a dream but I find it more tricky to start sometimes.
I have always just gently peeled the tape from the backing paper and folded it over the film to make it stiffer and therefore easier to start (I read this somewhere before I started with 120 and it made complete sense to me). Never had an issue yet. |
#24
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Reading these comments, I have only just realised that I load my 120 films in the darkroom, putting the un-taped end (ie exposure 12 or 16) into the reel first. Reading this it seems that starting with the tape end is a bit easier. I must give it a try.
Terry S |
#25
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Quote:
Interesting to read that I am not the only one who sometimes has trouble with 135 and the last few turns of the reel. For the latest load, I put the reel on a warm radiator for a short while (whilst I loaded a 120) and the whole length of the 135 went in very smoothly. |
#26
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I once many years ago was given a tip by a phtographer that I have never tried because I have never needed to. "If a spiral is difficult to load", he said "sprinkle a little talcum powder on it beforehand." He reckoned that it would even work with a damp spiral.
If anyone cares to give it a try, let me know if he was right please, just in case I need to do it myself sometime. |
#27
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Elimination of static and loading 120 on a spiral:
I had a problem with static back in the Terylene/Nylon age in the 1960's. Elimination is easy, just don't wear anything that is made of man-made fibers or stand on carpets using it. Wear cotton or woolen garments and stand on lino without shoes. For me it was problem solved.
Regarding the tape on 120 films. I try to tear off the tape as neatly and close to the paper backing as possible. I then put this end on to the spiral first. I find it tedious loading Ilford PanF due to the thinner film base and the tape give a slight improvement in rigidity. Fomapan and others with a thicker base are easy to load but I am not too struck with this film. As I don't use 120 film that often, I do one film at a time and use the small Nebro 10 tank which uses only 300ml of working strength solution. |
#28
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The pre-wash will remove anything left over (hardly anything) and I have not seen any problems with this method. Steve. |
#29
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I've seen this many times when tearing or pulling the tape off. It's harmless. Andres |
#30
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The things that one can learn by reading the forums on here!
And the words you can learn for scrabble as well... Terry S |
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