Getting the tape off 120 film

[Paulographic]

I find that it's better to tear the paper away from the film rather than the film from the paper, less chance of stress crescent marks.
If leaving on until dry snip the tape off before removing the film from the clip as there will be residual moisture in the tape which you don't want touching the dry emulsion.

[Adrian]

Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray

Most 120 tanks only take 500 ccs so a half litre provided that 2 x 120 will fit on the reel and given a 120 length this should be the case.

I use a Patterson two-reel tank that takes a litre with two 120 reels in it. I was just trying to be a cheap-skate. I use 1:33 or 1:31 HC110, pretty dilute so not sure I'd chance 500ml on 1 reel - mind you I've got some film testing coming up soon, so I could give it a go

[DaveUral]

Like Skellum I find it a struggle sometimes to get the last bit of a 36 exposure 135 onto the reel. 120 just goes on a dream but I find it more tricky to start sometimes.

I have always just gently peeled the tape from the backing paper and folded it over the film to make it stiffer and therefore easier to start (I read this somewhere before I started with 120 and it made complete sense to me). Never had an issue yet.

[Terry S]

Reading these comments, I have only just realised that I load my 120 films in the darkroom, putting the un-taped end (ie exposure 12 or 16) into the reel first. Reading this it seems that starting with the tape end is a bit easier. I must give it a try.

Terry S

[KeithM]

Originally Posted by CambsIan

Another vote for just tearing the tape off, and leaving half of it on the film. I tend to roll onto the reel direct from the film, separating the backing paper as I go and the last bit to go in the reel is the "tape" end.

Ian

Ditto. As I use a changing bag to load the film onto the reel, I find it easier to keep control of everything this way.

Interesting to read that I am not the only one who sometimes has trouble with 135 and the last few turns of the reel. For the latest load, I put the reel on a warm radiator for a short while (whilst I loaded a 120) and the whole length of the 135 went in very smoothly.

[DavidH]

I once many years ago was given a tip by a phtographer that I have never tried because I have never needed to. "If a spiral is difficult to load", he said "sprinkle a little talcum powder on it beforehand." He reckoned that it would even work with a damp spiral.
If anyone cares to give it a try, let me know if he was right please, just in case I need to do it myself sometime.

[AlanJones]

I had a problem with static back in the Terylene/Nylon age in the 1960's. Elimination is easy, just don't wear anything that is made of man-made fibers or stand on carpets using it. Wear cotton or woolen garments and stand on lino without shoes. For me it was problem solved.

Regarding the tape on 120 films. I try to tear off the tape as neatly and close to the paper backing as possible. I then put this end on to the spiral first. I find it tedious loading Ilford PanF due to the thinner film base and the tape give a slight improvement in rigidity. Fomapan and others with a thicker base are easy to load but I am not too struck with this film. As I don't use 120 film that often, I do one film at a time and use the small Nebro 10 tank which uses only 300ml of working strength solution.

[Steve Smith]

Originally Posted by DavidH

I once many years ago was given a tip by a phtographer that I have never tried because I have never needed to. "If a spiral is difficult to load", he said "sprinkle a little talcum powder on it beforehand."

Usually a completely dry spiral is o.k. but in the past, I have brushed in a very small amount of Mr Sheen furniture polish with an artist's brush then cleaned off any excess with another dry brush.

The pre-wash will remove anything left over (hardly anything) and I have not seen any problems with this method.


Steve.

[andresp]

Originally Posted by Adrian

... Static electricity. I pulled the tape off and saw a flash of light as I did it. ...

This is in fact not static electicity. It's called triboluminescence: Triboluminescence is an optical phenomenon in which light is generated through the breaking of chemical bonds in a material when it is pulled apart, ripped, scratched, crushed, or rubbed.

I've seen this many times when tearing or pulling the tape off. It's harmless.

Andres

[Terry S]

Originally Posted by andresp

[I]Triboluminescence is an optical phenomenon... Andres

The things that one can learn by reading the forums on here!

And the words you can learn for scrabble as well...

Terry S