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> 6x4.5 portrait lens |
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#11
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You can take portraits with pretty much any lens, many great portraits have been taken with Rolleiflex's or Rolleicord's with fixed 75mm lenses, I have done so myself, and with a Roleiner 1 close up lens then lovely head and shoulders or tight head shots, so if space is tight then simply use the 75mm? (I assume you have it as standard,) and you can take great head and shoulders or 3/4 lengty shots, heck, as Terry says you can usev a wide angle lens such as a 50mm lens
just try it and have fun Richard
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#12
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Hi All,
Many thanks for all the replies. The camera that I thought I might use was my Mamiya 645j, think I might try a roll with the standard lens, as perhaps it's not worth investing in a 150 as although this appears to be the lens of choice, it seems that there is no hard and fast rule. Might have to revert to 35mm as I have a much wider choice of lenses to choose from which given the tight space might be useful. As usual plenty of great advice, thanks to you all. Ian
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#13
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hi Ian I have the 120mm 645 macro lens ,my one only works on the af mamiya/phaseone cameras ,it does not have the aperture ring ,but its exactly the same as the older ones with a aperture ring that fit your camera, you will not get a sharper all round portrait lens and of course macro work lens I would defiantly recommend it .
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#14
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A lot of my best portraits have been taken on 2 1/4 " square using an 80mm lens with a 2x converter.
That way you are not nose to nose with the sitter. Do not forget the exposure factor for the convertor if using a separate light meter. I did once. Never again since I put a label on the convertor reminding me of the exposure factor to use.
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#15
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I have a home studio which is only 4m. square and use 6x6 and find the 150mm ideal for head and and shoulders portraits. If I need more of the subject I use the 80mm standard lens with a 1.4 converter giving approx 112mm.
I found the biggest problem in a small home studio was where to put the lights to avoid tripping over cables and/or toppling a top heavy light stand. I solved this by using safety chains or cords hooked over cup hooks screwed here and there and fixing brackets to the walls to mount lights, two brackets are fixed on to shelves used for storing the equipment. In a small space it's getting as much floor space free as possible so as to have a choice of shooting angles and make the best of whatever lenses you have. |
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