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> Pyro dev |
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#1
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Pyro dev
I feel the need to open a new thread about this subject, as the question I asked on the thread - Kudos to Peter Hogan! “Forgive my ignorance, but why would you want to use an alkali stop bath?
Jon Butlers answer “Less washing with FB paper but most like if for Pyro to protect the stain.” J. My question now is how does a Pyro dev improve my photography or printing? |
#2
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You may find this an intersting and helpful article, Clive;
www.viewcamera.com/pdf/2006/pyro.pdf
__________________
MartyNL “Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.” - Minor White, 1950 |
#3
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We have been using staining developers for near 10 years now and I have experimented with numerous formulas. Rather than go into it here, drop by our BLOG for more details about what I have found and what we use. Personally, I would not use any developer unless I felt it worked well for what I do. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask. I will do my best to share what I have learned. |
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#5
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I am talking film. . . though we do also use a catechol base print developer, but that is entirely different.
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#6
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An interesting website, JB with some useful articles. I have put it in my "favourites" list for future reference. Thanks
Mike |
#7
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The short answer is that it will not improve your photography, but will make printing from your negatives easier.
Many here use Peter Hogan's excellent Prescysol, Silverprint sell PMK PYRO Negative Developer for about £10, whilst others mix there own for less, so there is plenty to experiment with. |
#8
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It is interesting that Dave says that Pyro developers make it easier to print your negatives. I used Pyrocat HD for about ten years but gave up on it in the end because it seemed to lead to problems in printing. When I switched to ID11 at 1+3 and Perceptol at 1+3, I found my negatives were much easier to print.
Alan |
#9
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Quote:
J.
__________________
JB-Creative Imagery Jon Butler. http://real-silver-prints.com/ "I Prefer it in the Dark" |
#10
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The problem I had with pyro negatives was that they quite often seemed to need, say, grade 2.5 to get the best out of the shadows and, say 3.5 to get the best out of the highlights. In other words the negative often put up a fight before it yielded what I was after.
When I switched to the developers I mentioned above I found I no longer had to fight the negative. Often a straight print would get me quite close to what I was after in the print. I realise that this was all probably my fault, and nothing more than another quirk of the "black art". Alan |
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