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> Chemical temperature consistency |
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#21
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Despite insulating my log cabin darkroom at the end of the garden, with some clever silver stuff, I can't change the cabin's site, so it sits in full sun all day. The insulation works to an extent, but when I was in there a few days ago, it was about 25C. I'd dread to imagine what it would be like without the insulation, but I do remember it being a lot hotter before I put it in. To keep me cool in my small darkroom area in a corner of the cabin, I have a small electric fan directed at my face, which helps no end.
But since I've been trying out some lith developers recently, the ambient temperature has helped, along with a tray warmer, as I've been using the developer at 30C to 35C. And like Nat suggested - Quote:
I'm currently thinking about how to put in an air-conditioning unit, without letting light in...? To start with, I'm thinking of just using it to chill the darkroom down a bit and then remove the unit and close the blackouts. A lot will depend a lot on how quickly it all heats up again. Terry S |
#22
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Quote:
Just remember, if you keep notes, to write down that the exposures done were with the developer at a higher temperature than the usual 20C, that we aim for. Terry S |
#23
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I read a long time ago that metol and hydroquinone, if both are used in the print developer together can struggle with each other if the recommended temperature is increased.
Even if used on their own, when the temperature is increased from the recommended then you can get softer prints. I shall have a look through the few books I kept after taking a break from the darkroom for a few years. I gave most away. I tried all sorts of recommendations to get consistent quality prints. Some of it was absolute rubbish. Some of it I kept to. I shall have a look. Cheers.
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#24
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Being in Australia, I deal with an overheated darkroom for about a third of the year. I keep yoghurt tubs or the like in the freezer filled with water. It's a simple matter to pop one in each tray until the temperature comes down.
As for clothing, I'm sure you'd all look fetching in a bikini! I've resorted to that on many an occasion. Tonight's printing session was at the other end of the thermometer. Out of sheer desperation (i.e I couldn't wait for Winter to end to print these particular photos) I used a small fan heater to take the chill off (it was 9°C inside) and warmed the chemicals up in the kitchen sink whilst still in their bottles. I always make note of both my darkroom's temperature and if I've heated or cooled the chemicals to get to 20°C. There's inevitably a drift by the end of my printing session. I usually don't print in Winter because aside from the open fire place at the other end of the house, that small electric heater is it and it's just too expensive to run. |
#25
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Just had look at Ilford Harman info. sheets.
B&W PAPER DEVELOPERS July 2010. For Ilford Multigrade Developer, PQ Universal and Bromophen, they say, "....designed for use at ambient room temperature, nominally 20c/68f. We do not recommend its use for high temperature or machine processing." also.... "High temperature will reduce the effective solution life considerably and may give very short developing times that can lead to uneven processing being seen." They do not include time and temperature charts, just the 20c recommendation. Cheers.
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#26
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> may give very short developing times that can lead to uneven processing being seen."
That may be possible for baryta paper. And even with that, I don't believe in that. Prints should be developed until they reach a point of stabilization. Then nearly nothing happens anymore. PE papers have this effect very clearly. Baryta papers get darker with longish times, but slowly. Problems arise, if you overexpose your prints and try to rescue them with short developing times. This nevers gives a fine print. I would use the lab with the 27°C. |
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