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> Need a harder print than Grade 5 ? |
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#21
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In the Darkroom Cookbook , Anchell also says thak you can add a sodium carbonate solution to the developer to enhace the blacks and potasium bromide solution to make more brillant whites, increasing the contrast. And other solutions are an internegative with lith film and/or a lith developer (I don't know if are still available)
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#22
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http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.or...dium+carbonate Terry S |
#23
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If so, metabisulphite is more available (brewers' suppliers) Would it be worth trying a bit of hydroxide in your usual paper developer? |
#24
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> Would it be worth trying a bit of hydroxide in your usual paper developer?
Probably not. Developers are buffered and the pH changes only slowly with acid or alkali add on |
#25
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The foremost thing is what kind of light do you have in your enlarger? Do you have condenser enlarger of cold-cathode?
Condenser gives by default 1-1.5 higher contrast in the expense of higher grain and less protection from dust on the film, so you must have very clean negatives. |
#26
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Hmmm - just had a thought after watching a new vid on youtube... What about over-printing somewhat and then bleaching back the highlights in Farmer's reducer? That would add some contrast.
But with possibly muddy shadows now I think of it - damn, these magic bullets are illusive buggers. Might be worth a try tho? |
#27
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My only problem was that it wasn't clear to me how well it worked. There was, I think, some kind of an improvement but I found it difficult to be sure. A "before" print along with his "after" print might have been worthwhile Mike |
#28
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Yep, that was the one Also, I thought exactly the same as you - a with/without shot would have been very useful to compare the effect.
I have used Farmer's before but typically, over-did it... So it was useful to see John Finch's approach. I also have a negative of sheep that could do with the sheep brightening up in the print... |
#29
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What surprises me to an extent is why he doesn't say that in the early days of using Farmer's when good judgement on when to stop can be difficult to achieve and overdoing it can occur, another route is to use only ferri, wash thoroughly and immediately then if you have judged it correctly dunk into fix.
That way if you have overdone it you can redevelop stop, fix and wash then apply the ferri This would work, wouldn't it? The only snag with this, assuming it would work, is that it much more of a palaver and I suppose on balance it might be easier to just re-print. He does say to constantly err on the safe side so you could say that that is the "catch-all" answer Mike |
#30
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I mentioned to you what gives the best result already. You can try re-development with 1:1 PQ or even in stock (but stock is not always a solution due to chemical reactions).
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