Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free:   AG Photographic   The Imaging Warehouse   Process Supplies   RH Designs   Second-hand Darkroom Supplies  

Notices

Go Back   Film and Darkroom User > Monochrome Work > Monochrome Film

  ***   Click here for the FADU 2015/2014 Yearbooks   ***

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 14th August 2021, 08:21 PM
Nat Polton Nat Polton is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 757
Default

I just guessed the half stops. I could have used the compensating dial on my Olympus OM2-n, this allows 2 stops either way in 1/3 steps.
Half stops kept things a lot simpler.

If you definitely want 1/3 steps of aperture and your camera will only do 1/2 steps, you could always buy 1/3 and 2/3 neutral density filters and use the camera purely in manual.
It would get a bit complicated thinking about which full stop and filter to use for the sequence required.
But the expense involved would not justify the purchase of the filters in my opinion.

Cheers.
__________________
It will all be over by Christmas.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 14th August 2021, 08:32 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Daventry, Northants
Posts: 8,962
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nat Polton View Post
I achieved a result of 125 iso for FP4+.


Cheers.
Thanks Nat It would look as if most standard developers such as ID11/D76/Ilfosol/ Xtol etc will give you box speed with Ilford/Kodak films so maybe the test proves its worth when dealing with "non standard" developers such as D23, Perceptol which you might suspect of being slower or films such as Foma and the ORWO/ Rollei range where the makers' specs are less reliable

It might even be that some such as DDX or Microphen might even give you more than box speed for shadows so speed testing with those might give slightly different results

I have a 11x9 inch grey card of a similar vintage to your s and close up with a 50mm lense such as John Finch's distance from board to camera it might prove big enough

On the other hand, as Marty says, a wall of biscuit-coloured bricks might be equally as good and has the advantage in the zone 9 neg exposure in that the just perceptible detail might be more easily distinguishable in bricks

Mike
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 15th August 2021, 06:17 AM
Uwe Pilz's Avatar
Uwe Pilz Uwe Pilz is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Leipzig, Germany.
Posts: 354
Default

You don't need a grey card. You may use each even lit surface, if it does not have too much color in it. Wood is good, stucco too, even drawing board is a good idea.
Because you measure the surface, all deviations from the grey card are compensated.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 15th August 2021, 02:40 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Daventry, Northants
Posts: 8,962
Default

Thanks Uwe. It looks as if my North facing biscuit coloured brick wall may be fine

Mike
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 17th August 2021, 09:01 PM
Bob's Avatar
Bob Bob is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: London(ish)
Posts: 2,744
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
Thanks Uwe. It looks as if my North facing biscuit coloured brick wall may be fine

Mike
If you use a non-uniform subject, I think you would need to throw it as far out of focus as you can to make it as even as you can on the negative - you are going to look for the faintest tone and if it is textured, you will see the different densities and not know which is the one you need to be just visible.

Possibly the simplest is to use a towel draped over the back of a chair - out of focus again to avoid the slight texture. Or you might have a large cardboard box lying around (I seem to have been on the receiving end of dozens over the last year or so!) - a blank side would make a good target.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 17th August 2021, 09:11 PM
skellum's Avatar
skellum skellum is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Isle of Lewis
Posts: 1,330
Default

Agreed Bob.
Having a texture in the frame can be just an extra degree of confusion.
Whenever I've tried to test film speed I've opted for a plain target, fairly close but lens at infinity.
Removes any possible bellows extension factor, and gives a blurry-smooth negative which is perfectly even-toned.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 17th August 2021, 10:03 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Daventry, Northants
Posts: 8,962
Default

Thanks both. A plain cardboard box or plain pale biscuit-coloured piece of smooth MDF it is and lens at infinity it is then.

Here's one more thought and comments will be appreciated. I might give HP5+ a go with Microphen, This is a new developer to me.

Given its alleged speed increasing quality I was wondering if it is worth testing HP5+ at box speed and say EI 500 to see if at the latter speed it still meets the zone 1 criterion test.

What I had thought of was two sets of negs on the same film. One at film base plus fog then John Finch's sequence at box speed followed by a second "hand" shot to distinguish the two sets of negs and then the same sequence all over again but this time using the metered reading and 4 stops reduction etc at EI 500?

Is my logic correct?

Finally has anyone tried the HP5+ speed test at 500 with Microphen and if so what was the result ?

Thanks

Mike
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 18th August 2021, 04:05 AM
Uwe Pilz's Avatar
Uwe Pilz Uwe Pilz is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Leipzig, Germany.
Posts: 354
Default

> but this time using the metered reading and 4 stops reduction etc at EI 500?

It is not necessary to have two sequence, because they are overlapping in large areas. Simply expand your series at the edges for one or two stops. Half stops can be interpolated.

If you make two series at one film you may use the second for an other developing time. This is much more important.
Reply With Quote
Reply
Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free:   AG Photographic   The Imaging Warehouse   Process Supplies   RH Designs   Second-hand Darkroom Supplies  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Film developer photomi7ch Monochrome Film 65 7th January 2017 12:18 PM
NEW Film Developer from Ag Matt5791 New products and offers 19 24th October 2013 11:17 AM
D-23 Film Developer Barry Chemical formulae 18 25th September 2012 01:10 AM
Film Developer cliveh Chemical formulae 31 12th July 2011 05:15 PM
Which Film Developer? Barry Chemical formulae 31 23rd November 2008 06:11 PM


All times are GMT. The time now is 10:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.