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#1
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Cyanotype Chemicals
Hi All,
With Christmas approaching, I am considering asking Santa for a Cyanotype starter kit https://cyanotype.co.uk/cyanotype_starterkit.html Any body know how long the liquid chemicals will last once opened? do they oxidise like developer ? I know you can buy the powdered chemicals, paper etc from various places, but for a start, I thought the kit might be the way to go. Anybody got any thoughts ? Ian
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#2
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Hi Ian,
I just bought the chemicals and mixed the two solutions. They seem to last quite long (months). I have just looked at the book where I found the recipe. The author states that the two solutions, uncombined, will last several months if stored in a cool, dark place. The recipe I have is ; Solution A 10g Potassium Ferricyanide in 100ml water. Solution B 25g Ferric Ammonium Citrate in 100ml water. You mix equal parts of A and B to create the sensitive solution. This should, apparently be done in subdued light. This is then coated on paper, and allowed to dry, before use. I watched someone demonstrating all this on a TV programme recently, and they worked outdoors in daylight. I’m not sure whether subdued light is actually necessary. I read somewhere that the process works better on an acidic paper. I haven’t tried that yet, but intend to at some point. The problem is finding any acidic paper. All the stuff aimed at artists is ‘acid free’. I have used watercolour paper successfully. A kit might be a good idea, but I would be inclined to price the required chemicals, brushes for coating and electronic scales, if you don’t already have a suitable set. You can use things called foam brushes which are inexpensive. You might find that you can buy everything for a bit less than a kit. The use of Hydrogen Peroxide to tone the images is worth trying. You can buy it from chemists and hairdressing suppliers. You dilute it to 1-2% strength for toning. It creates a more intense blue. It’s an interesting process, and certainly worth trying. Alex. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#3
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Hi Alex,
Many thanks for the reply. The items separately add up to a fair bit, and probably more than I should spend on a fist time project. Glad the chem's last a while before mixing, as reckon it might take me a while to use it all up as sunshine might be in short supply in January. Once again, thanks for the info. Ian
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#4
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Quote:
But yes, the site looks good and has such an obvious web name that I've not thought of looking at before, but then again I don't know how long they've been around. As for the kit, I think that's the best way to go initially and then one can top up with items if the process is enjoyed. It would be worth comparing it with some of our sponsors prices, as some of them also stock a kit. As for acidic paper Alex, I noticed that there's a small packet of citric acid in the kit mentioned. I know nothing of the ins and outs of this process, but do you think that maybe this is the acids purpose in the kit? Terry S |
#5
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Is it to add to the washing process or to the chemicals to make the cyanotype liquid for coating the paper or for soaking the artist paper which you then dry and thus turning it into acidic paper Finally if it is for the latter, is this unnecessary if you buy the pre-coated paper which may have been treated? More questions that answers and a call to the company may be the easiest way to get the info Mike |
#6
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Yes, it would look as if cyanotype is a late spring to early autumn affair if relying on the sun but there is always a UV lamp at a cost
I had a good look at the site and it was interesting and it does cater well for those wishing to only dip their toes in until they can be sure it is for them. Mike |
#7
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There are a few kits on the market, but the one Ian linked to is the cheapest I’ve seen, so probably a good starting point.
I don’t know what the citric acid is for. I don’t think it will be to acidify the paper, purely because I’ve never seen that mentioned as part of the process. The reference to acidic papers was either in a book, or on a forum, or other internet resource. I took it to mean that the use of paper with a level of acid in the finished product gave better results than those which are PH neutral. I will try to find the reference. I used the instructions from a book called ‘The Handbook of Experimental Photography’. I have a UV tanning lamp which I bought to use with this, and other alternative processes. Alex. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#8
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Hi All, many many thanks for your replies, once again FADUer's to the rescue.
The lack of sunshine has had me thinking about alternatives and I had been wondering about UV light bulbs like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Equivalent-...NsaWNrPXRydWU= fitted into my photo light stands with a home made reflector, could this be a "el cheapo" work around for a UV lamp? Any thoughts Ian
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#9
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The lamps that you have linked too, I believe are not the ones you require, for they are much too weak. The linked ones, are for what they show in the thumbnail pictures, which is basically for parties etc. to make fluorescent paint and markers glow in the dark. Alex above mentions that he uses a 'UV tanning lamp', which is the sort of thing you will need. Cheapish and workable ones are sold on the original link that had the kit on that you thought of buying. Checking other sites, the cheapest facial unit I could find is on ebay, with a new one starting at £68.00, but is not designed for photographic use, like the one on the original site link, but who said our hobby was cheap? I'd recommend doing a bit more searching to see what others use for their UV exposures, which will cover quite a range, to include the above, to including quite a lot of diy boxes fitted with UV tubes. It all depends on your diy abilities and how much you want to spend. Terry S |
#10
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Hi Terry,
Thanks for that, pretty much confirmed what I expected. Think I might have to see if I can stretch to the extended kit which includes the correct lamp. It's the same price as the smaller kit + the lamp, but you get slightly more of the solutions. Ian
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