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> HP5+ and HC-110 |
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#11
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While print problems are a right royal pain, neg problems are far worse. I hope you get it sorted, Michael.
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MartyNL “Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.” - Minor White, 1950 |
#12
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HC 110 used at 1:49
HC110 - 1:49
If you are interersted in using HC 110 at 1:49 here are some useful starting times for a selection of films. I have tried a few of them and they are pretty good. Neil. FROM APUG THREAD _ HC110 made simple by: photographer David William White: I like Hc110. Especially for roll film. I don't like the convoluted "working solution" dilutions and sub dilutions, or the short times some of the dilutions and sub dilutions create. It should be simple to use Hc110, like Rodinal. If you care to research, there was a method to Kodak’s madness when they created the dilutions and routines for HC110, but they are of little convenience for the darkroom enthusiast. I get more questions about mixing and developing with HC110 than all other developers combined. It is a great developer that doesn't need to be complex in usage, so I concocted a metric dilution that goes by 50 (1:49) That means you use 10 ml of HC110 for every 490 ml of water in a direct from the concentrate dilution. Here is how to use it on roll film in an inversion tank, like Rodinal: First of all, forget about saving and replenishing it. Mix up what you need, use it, and dump it. It's so cheap under normal usage that saving it is fairly useless from a cost savings perspective, plus consistent performance is assured by using it one-shot. Next, forget about an intermediate working solution. Mix it directly from the concentrate. Use a small bottle and a baby syringe (available at any drug store) to mix directly from the concentrate. Simply mix it 1:49 . Use the times below as a starting guide (you may not expose the same as me, or may not have the same taste in negatives, so these are only suggestions that should get you in the ballpark to do your own tweaking. 1:49 So without further ado, Hc110 direct from concentrate-1:49 , 68f 20c, agitate first 30s with 2 inversions every 30s thereafter. Note to the civilized-Please keep in mind that this methodology is for the US version of the concentrate (1 liter bottle undiluted). Acros100 @ 100 - 8 min Efke 25 @ 20 - 10.5 min Efke100 @ 100 - 10 min Ilford FP4+ @ 64 - 9 min Ilford FP4+ @ 125 - 11 min Ilford HP5 @ 400 - 8 min Ilford HP5 @ 800 - 11.5 min Plus X @ 125 - 8 min Tmax100 @ 100 - 9 min Tmax400 @ 400 - 9 min TriX320 @ 320 -8 min TriX400 @ 400 - 8 min The following was provided by photographer David William White: Arista EDU-Ultra 100 @ 100 - 6.5 min Ilford Pan F+ @ 50 - 5.5 min
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"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#13
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That's something I've never seen Michael. Very puzzling. If indeed it was undissolved particles, why wouldn't the spots be across the whole neg? Intuitively it doesn't make sense that they are only along the edges. Unless of course you're a twizzle stick agitator, then those edges may be areas of lower turbulence and the particles clung on there because not enough force to dislodge them, if that makes sense. I have had spots similar to those on one of my films, but they were only along the one edge which was at the top of the reel. This was due to excessive froth and bubbles that got trapped under the reel during the rest period (no agitation) of development. That yours are along both edges rules that out. Unless they were bubbles clinging to the film and, as above, they clung on in the zones of low turbulence. Are you in the habit of firmly rapping your tank after each agitation cycle? Just throwing out a couple of possible causes. Others with more experience may have better insight here. Hope we can help you figure this out.
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Regards, Svend |
#14
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Quote:
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I can't offer any suggestions at the moment, but if (hopefully a big if), it ever happens again, I'll take more interest and see if we can work out why it happens. In the meantime I hope you get on better with your new chosen developer. Terry S |
#15
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I was wondering if anyone has tried Bellini Foto HC as an alternative to HC110?
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#16
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This should be Bellini FOTO Euro HC
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#17
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I use HC110 almost exclusively (except for Adox HRDEV which I use with Adox HR50 film). I won't say whether or not it's a "good" developer with HP5+ as tastes vary, but all of the HP5+ images here are developed with HC110 (usually dilution B) so you can judge for yourself:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/182246...57712641795367
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