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  #21  
Old 28th June 2020, 09:34 AM
High Sierra High Sierra is offline
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Originally Posted by Alan Clark View Post
Hello Pete, finding the minimum print time to get a full black on your printing paper is only useful for contact printing your negatives so you can assess them - as described in the halfhill article. It is of no practical use when making prints, for the simple reason that the minimum print time doesn't stay the same , across the grades. It varies according to what filter grade is being used. At grade 0 the "minimum print time" will be much longer than at grade 5.

Alan
Thanks Alan, yes, I'd started to formulate that idea in me 'ed. I think the route I will take is using the dmax contact print and film speed determination strategies to give me good negatives, but in the darkroom with multigrade paper and 2.5 grade, do a test print for best overall tonality and from there embellish with dodging/burning or consider some sort of split grade process if need be.
Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was hoping to get straight. I was wandering down the wrong route thinking of taking the dmax contact print idea straight to the print.
Picking up my enlarger tomorrow but I can see it being about 3 months before I've got somewhere to put it.
Pete
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  #22  
Old 28th June 2020, 11:54 AM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Originally Posted by High Sierra View Post
but I know I'm a bit lazy and sloppy so no doubt will fall into the suck it and see category.

Pete
Pete it may be worthwhile to set your film to box speed then 1/3rd stop down, then 1/2 stop down, 2/3rds stop down then 1 full stop down and take 5 pics of the same scene. One of those negatives is almost certain to have the right level of shadow detail which is largely unaffected by development time so develop the whole film at box speed time. Once you have arrived at your E.I. then adjust the development if necessary to get your highlights right. This is the quick, simple and non "through the hoops" mathematical method

Once you have the E.I. right then turn to printing method.

Mike
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  #23  
Old 28th June 2020, 12:05 PM
High Sierra High Sierra is offline
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Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
Pete it may be worthwhile to set your film to box speed then 1/3rd stop down, then 1/2 stop down, 2/3rds stop down then 1 full stop down and take 5 pics of the same scene. One of those negatives is almost certain to have the right level of shadow detail which is largely unaffected by development time so develop the whole film at box speed time. Once you have arrived at your E.I. then adjust the development if necessary to get your highlights right. This is the quick, simple and non "through the hoops" mathematical method

Once you have the E.I. right then turn to printing method.

Mike
Good thinking. Thanks Mike.
Pete
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  #24  
Old 28th June 2020, 01:43 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Good thinking. Thanks Mike.
Pete
Now have I done this? No is the answer but like you it should be on my "to do" as it does help establish whether box speed or less is the best.

Don't worry, laziness is well spread amongst the population. I am worse than you. I am getting "a round tuit" the next time I see one on e-bay

Mike
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  #25  
Old 28th June 2020, 03:43 PM
High Sierra High Sierra is offline
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Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
Now have I done this? No is the answer but like you it should be on my "to do" as it does help establish whether box speed or less is the best.

Don't worry, laziness is well spread amongst the population. I am worse than you. I am getting "a round tuit" the next time I see one on e-bay

Mike


I have done something similar for my scanning and settled on about iso 300 for Delta 400, but I typically just round it down to 200.
Pete
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