Method to your use of paper?

[PavelDerka]

I am finding that so far fiber paper is quite frustration to work with. It looks great but even after I get it a bit flat under a pile of books it seems that it curls back up. I have a mix of paper, much of it inherited with enlargers I've bought and thus so far I've been piddling around with no method to anything, just grabbing paper as I felt like it. I do notice hower, or at least think I notice, that some of the fiber prints look a bit "richer". It could be my desire to see that however.

Thinking ahead I want to slowly come up with some kind of coherent strategy to buying and buying wisely in the near future. What views and practices do you all implement?

For example I was thinking, keeping in mind that fiber is so much more expensive (and apparently troublesome) that in the future I would buy the bulk of paper in RC. I was thinking that I would buy two or three RC types in 5x7 and perhaps one larger size like 11x14 to practice and to get a feel of what potential may lie in a negative. Then with the small percent of negatives that seem really worth while - have a much more limited supply of paper but in a more varied array of sizes for those times deemed worth fussing about.

Alternatively it may be better to stick to one type or another - RC vs fiber I mean. How do you all approach this?

Some much paper - so little money - so little time!

[Leo Stehlik]

Pavel, here's what I do:

for general, non-important scan for the internet, thinking about a print, tests and learning, giving away to to people who do not appreciate timeless quality in photography (some friends and family), I use chepest RC paper on the market.

For quality work ... I only use Fibre paper, usually one of the following (in no particular order and depending on the subject):
- Ilford Multigrade Warmtone
- Ilford Galerie grade 2/3
- Fomatone MG Classic
- Foma Chamois

I found it hard to stick with one type of paper ... similar to film formats ... different subjects need different type of paper...

[Andrew Bartram]

Originally Posted by PavelDerka

I am finding that so far fiber paper is quite frustration to work with. It looks great but even after I get it a bit flat under a pile of books it seems that it curls back up. I have a mix of paper, much of it inherited with enlargers I've bought and thus so far I've been piddling around with no method to anything, just grabbing paper as I felt like it. I do notice hower, or at least think I notice, that some of the fiber prints look a bit "richer". It could be my desire to see that however.

Thinking ahead I want to slowly come up with some kind of coherent strategy to buying and buying wisely in the near future. What views and practices do you all implement?

For example I was thinking, keeping in mind that fiber is so much more expensive (and apparently troublesome) that in the future I would buy the bulk of paper in RC. I was thinking that I would buy two or three RC types in 5x7 and perhaps one larger size like 11x14 to practice and to get a feel of what potential may lie in a negative. Then with the small percent of negatives that seem really worth while - have a much more limited supply of paper but in a more varied array of sizes for those times deemed worth fussing about.

Alternatively it may be better to stick to one type or another - RC vs fiber I mean. How do you all approach this?

Some much paper - so little money - so little time!

Pavel

Search the forum for recent threads "Resin Coated anybody" has gotten several pages of responses.
Also search the forum for FB paper drying - some good tips to be found

Good luck

[Richard Gould]

I used to use Fibre paper a lot, but these I use fibre very rarely, even for fine prints, I use RC paper for around 95% of my printing,including sale prints,I have concluded that with todays RC paper as long as you process with care it is as good as fibre, and the paper I use exclusively is the Fotospeed RCVC, it is warmer, in the fotospeed warmtone paper dev,wt10, at 1/19 to 1/29, than the ilford wt paper,either fibre or rc,and I love the stuff, it will have to be a very special image now for me to print on Fibre, also the fotospeed tones like a dream,even in selinium it tones well, Richard

[Dave miller]

I use both R/C and FB papers, lots of different types and makes, it’s chaos in my papersafe. I make test prints on R/C paper, usually 10x8 in order to judge if I want to progress it, most get no further than that stage. If the test print excites me I will progress onto FB paper having decided what make/grade/type will suit the vision best; I also take account here of developers and possible toning that I think will enhance the subject.
I agree that FB is more work, but I’m a hobbyist, and don’t have a deadline to meet, so I can enjoy the process. For flattening prints I normally now use a dry mounting press, but everyone has their favourite method; before I brought the press I used THIS method.

[MartyNL]

For this very reason, I've just invested in a dry mount press. Ademco was the most common when I was at College but Seal seems to be the standard in the US. Take a look on the auction site.

[Andrew Bartram]

I'd never get permission to house such a beast!!

[Adrian Twiss]

Originally Posted by MartyNL

For this very reason, I've just invested in a dry mount press. Ademco was the most common when I was at College but Seal seems to be the standard in the US. Take a look on the auction site.

I have one of these with a 26x20 platten. Picked it up for less than £50. Mind you it nearly killed me and a friend trying to get it up the stairs.

Going back to the original posters question. I find that flattening a print in a press makes it flat but it takes on a gentle curl shortly after that can only be removed by mounting. The heavy book method does work but you can never entirely eliminate the curl.

My current printing strategy is to proof all my prints on Ilford MGIV RC
paper. I try and make the best print possible and then take a couple of days to see if I like it enough to make a fibre based print.

Depending on the subject I use either

Fomabrom Variant 111 - a neutral tone paper that can produce cold tones in D72.

Fomatone MG - Very warm tones (shame about the off white paper base). Also very responsive to different developers.

Adox Vario Classic - cold tone paper that stays cold in Kodak D72.

I use mainly Kodak D72 or Defender 55D warm tone but am experimenting with Ansco 130 and Feinne's amidol developers.

[Mike O'Pray]

I have received at least a couple of FB prints on the monthly print exchange and they seem to stay reasonably flat. However there does seem to be quite a lot more trouble and time involved.

The FB feel and look was nice but being honest I didn't find myself saying: "Wow I now know what I have been missing all my life and must change".

The weight and feel of FB may well be achieved with Ilford RC Portfolio paper. It is expensive but avoids the washing and flattening issues with FB.

That leaves the question of longevity. The evidence that proves that modern RC will last as long as FB isn't there as modern RC hasn't been around long enough but some here may have modern 30 year old RC prints and may wish to comment on longevity to date or may already have on the other thread mentioned.

If I were to depart this mortal coil tomorrow I doubt if anyone would say of my prints that they hope they'd last another 50 years so I can't say I am worried about longevity when expressed in that kind of time period.

In short, too much effort required in relation to the benefits perceived from FB so I remain an RC person.

Mike

[Neil Smith]

The FB feel and look was nice but being honest I didn't find myself saying: "Wow I now know what I have been missing all my life and must change".

Funny isn't it but my finding was the opposite, when I tried FB in college after using RC I found the difference was enormous, the subtle detail I retained in a print on FB as opposed to RC was significant, and there were other benefits I found it had over the RC. Though I will say it was Record Rapid, which was an exceptional paper which is hard to match these days. Of course there are downsides but I wouldn't use anything else these.


Neil