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#1
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Darkroom blackout material
Hello
I have to blackout my bathroom when I want to make prints and the biggest hassle is taping up the window and door. Currently using old cardboard boxes cut to shape then gaffer taped to the wooden surrounds. Is there a company that makes made to measure blackout material that could be fixed and removed quickly (velcro?)to save a lot of hassle. Thankyou for any advice |
#2
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Quote:
If you check out this following thread link, you will find it talked about there, with varying suggestions: http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.or...light=blackout Terry S |
#3
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I use a sheet of hardboard reinforced with strips of wood around the edges to stiffen it. The actual board is 6" wider than the actual window opening except at the bottom where it has to rest on the window ledge.
I have a strip of Velcro type hook and loop tape stuck to the smooth side of the board about 3" in from the edge inside the area closer to where the window is. Either side of the Velcro about 1" away. I also have strips of heavy duty draft excluder foam tape stuck to the board around the sides and top. This so far has proved worth my while. The foam does the job of sealing the board and light pressure on the area of the Velcro makes sure it is held in place. The draft excluder foam will need replacing about every 2 years because it compresses over time and allows a tiny amount of light to get through. If the walls are emulsion or gloss painted the Velcro will also take off the paint in patches if it is removed deliberately off the walls. Tiles should be OK but make sure the grouted gaps between the tiles are also sealed. |
#4
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I blacked out the box bedroom room window using two wooden batten frames covered in household curtain backing material.
The material is white one side and black on the other. Also available white both sides and more aesthetic in a living environment. White goes to the window and black to the room side. Easily available in dressmaking and household fabric shops in the UK. Trouble is, with lockdown you may have trouble finding a shop open, so the internet will probably be the answer. I left about four inches of material wider than the frames. A thin strip of foam was laid against the material and the loose material pushed into the small gap between the window frame and the batten frame using an old wooden school ruler. The sponge holds the frames firmly in place. Perfectly light tight but no damage to the surrounds. I discovered the material when the local school put up security lights and the timers started going haywire. Going on and off all hours of the night. So it is curtain backing material, the light proof kind from a decent sewing materials shop. Cheers.
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It will all be over by Christmas. |
#5
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Process Supplies in London sells nice blackout material which you can cut to the size. Speak to Chris or Paul and they'll help you for sure.
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#6
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Richard's of Hull do tailor-made blinds to fit your window. A picture is worth a thousand words so here's the link:http://www.richards.uk.com/decora.htm
I have one in my converted bedroom It is unobtrusive when up and is operational in about 30 secs max I have never looked back since installing it Mike |
#7
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Richards of Hull no longer supply blackout blinds.
I bought my blackout blind from Crosby Blinds - https://www.crosbyblinds.co.uk/produ...x-Lite%20Black To place the order I phoned them up to make sure I was ordering the right thing and they were very helpful. Arrived in about a week and came with all the necessary fittings. I'm very happy with it - its very light tight. Martin |
#8
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Thanks Martin. The blinds section is still there on the Richards website as it has always been so a great pity that Richards didn't delete it but good to know that a similar service is offered by Crosby Blinds
My apologies to the OP Mike |
#9
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Thankyou everyone for your advice. I'll put this into practice and that should encourage me to be a bit more active in the darkroom!
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#10
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You may find that two layers work best - especially if sunlight hits your window directly. If you block the window and still get light leaks around the edges, try a curtain with plenty of overlap (possibly temporary using wires attached to eyelets at each end).
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