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> Recapturing the look of the contact print in an enlargement |
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#21
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Although not the same, you could try filing a 35mm negative mask and printing the whole neg plus rebate. This often has the feel of a big contact print, but then your shots must be very good in camera.
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MartyNL “Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.” - Minor White, 1950 |
#22
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I'm entirely with you in your line of thought. I can't compose that accurately with my (film) Leica (and am really puzzled that some people apparently could, like HCB for instance). So I do what seemed to me the next best thing. I have three re-useable black frames in which I display my favourite photos of the moment. I use a white overmount that is only 2" wide all round (for a 16"x12" print), so the black frame is relatively close to the image. It certainly does provide that reference value for the eye.
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#23
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Jonathan, I have been looking at the photographs on your website and have to say I am really impressed. What a superb collection!
I like the name of your website too. You obviously don't take yourself too seriously. Alan |
#24
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How do you make your contact prints? Do you place them under a glass sheet? When you place them in the enlarger do you use a glass less negative carrier?
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Mitch http://photomi7ch.blogspot.com/ If you eliminate the impossible whatever remains no matter how improbable must be the truth. |
#25
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I am serious about photography in a way, but I don't have any illusions about the long-term value of mine. They are just a bit of fun. Jonathan |
#26
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J. |
#27
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I had a quick look at your photos and I agree with Alan
In the Rural Affairs and Fun At The Fair were all the photos taken on HP5+? It's just that despite what some say, HP5+ seems to me to have a great response to revealing shadow details as your shots have at the expense some would say of contrast but that's another debate. Mike |
#28
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I will need to go through and check which film type I used the negatives, but from recollection all four of Delta 100, FP4+, HP5+ and Tri-X are represented in Fun at the Fair. Shadow detail is largely about metering, of course, but also I have consistently used a 2-bath developer, Emofin by choice while it was available. I rated HP5+ and Tri-X at 800ISO for Emofin. The wrestling/boxing booth shots were taken at twilight on HP5+/Emofin. I loved that combination. The example picture of my daughter attached here was on FP4+ in Emofin (what looks like grain here is a scanning artefact - grain is barely visible in a 16x12 print). Since Emofin was discontinued, I have used Barry Thornton's 2-bath formula, but at box speed in every case. When you say 'at the expense of contrast', do you mean that the images look a bit flat? Contrast is a fickle thing as I'm sure you know, and depends hugely on viewing conditions. Setting the contrast of website images to look good on everyone's viewing device seems impossible. I tweaked those images to look equally good on my ageing iMac and mobile phone. But I struggle with prints too, because when I print an image on different contrast grades, the one I favour today will be different from the one I favour tomorrow. But maybe you mean that the highlights seem blown, or the shadows not black enough, or something else? |
#29
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Mitch http://photomi7ch.blogspot.com/ If you eliminate the impossible whatever remains no matter how improbable must be the truth. |
#30
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Jonathan, the pic of your daughter certainly looks to have the right contrast but it was taken in much shadier conditions than the outdoor Fun At The Fair and Rural Affairs shots which have great open shadow detail but, yes, because of that do look a little flatter.
As you say each viewer may have different contrast settings on his VDU and you are right that there is an argument that what users of, say, HP5+ and its rival Tri-X see in their negs from which they scan or print is that each manufacturer gives times for a different contrast index thus making the comparison one that is apple and pears if users stick to each maker's CI. My own very subjective experience with HP5+ is that outdoors its ability to catch detail in deep shadows is excellent. I have never used Tri-X but on countless YouTube videos dealing with comparisons nearly everyone concludes that HP5+ has more shadow detail but lower contrast and you pays your money and takes your pick as the saying goes However as I said above those who appear to know a lot about development will cite that these users develop the 2 films to each of the film maker's CIs which are different. On that point Greg Davis aka The Naked Photographer did such a comparison in identical studio conditions and his conclusion was that there really was no difference Anyway I am straying far from the subject of your thread so I'll stop. Suffice it to say that genuinely scientific comparisons between films are probably more difficult to execute than most YouTube presenters realise Mike |
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