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> Dredfully underexposed - recovery |
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#1
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Dredfully underexposed - recovery
Dear Les
I was luck enough to go on a trip last year to California, and the amazing Yosemite. I managed to get some great shots, unfortunately I also messed up some shots which I was hoping were going to be great (as always!) I was using a Bronica (which I don't own anymore) and on the lenes there is a switch that I forget the exact function of, but it is secured with a grub screw - this screw had become loose and the switch had moved half way, and when this happens, it seems, the lens defaults to 1/60th. I had climbed up to the foot of El Capitan to get some upward looking shots with the 40mm lens (Ilford Pan F) however, whilst I had set the shutter for 1/8th (of there abouts, I forget exactly) I was infact getting 1/60th. I have heard there are ways of intensifying a negative that is underexposed - and I know there is a Chromium kit from Fotospeed - but I have also heard of mercury intensificaton. Or, maybe I don't need to go down this route? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a scan - this is the least thin negative on the roll (It looks a LOT better scanned than when I tried to print it - infact now I have scanned it I'm starting to wonder if I'm making too much of a fuss!) Matt |
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#2
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Hi Matt. Having done exactly the same as you more than once in my photographic endeavours I know just how you feel.
The scan you have posted looks quite good but scanners do record information well even from a very thin negative. Given that by your own addmission the negative is very thin, three stops underexposed from the description in your post, I'd be tempted to try a print using grade 5 to see what detail you can drag out of the very thin shadow areas of the negative. Very careful and precise exposure and development will be needed here. Should that process work for the thin shadows you can quite simply use VC paper, expose for the shadows first and make a second test using a more suitable different grade for the remainder of the image. To make the final print will require some burning and dodging, for example when exposing the grade 5 area dodge the remainder of the image followed by holding back the grade 5 when exposing the remainder. It will be somewhat complex but worth a try. If this method is not sucessful you can intensify the negative using selenium toner at 1 part toner to 3 parts water at 20c for about 9 or 10 minutes. This will give you something in the region of 3/4 of a stop even 1 stop but only where there is already information on the negative. I've never used Fotospeed's Chromium Intensifier but I understand it works quite well. There is a formula for Mercury Intensifier which will work better than the two methods I've mentioned but there are "side effects" the main one being an increase in grain. Mercury is also very difficult to purchase these days because it can be a dangerous chemical if not handled properly. Please let me know how you get on. |
#3
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Hi Les,
That is really helpful, many thanks. I will try the split grade and post the results. I'm hoping to get onto this within the next week..... Also, I hadn't realised Selenium was a possibility for intensification, but I guess that makes sense. Once again thanks, Matt. |
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*** Please note: this is the ASK LES forum *** *** Only Les McLean and the original poster may post in this thread *** *** Anyone else posting into this thread will have their post deleted *** |
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