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  #11  
Old 21st November 2020, 07:39 PM
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Bob Bob is offline
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Would the column bolt to the worktop in the same way it currently mates to the baseboard? You may need some washers or metal plates (Wickes sell assorted ones) underneath to take the strain.
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  #12  
Old 21st November 2020, 08:20 PM
mpirie mpirie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostlabours View Post
Mike, it's possible the wall bracket I have would fit the L1200 but some measurements would be needed. I had it made when I moved into a small darkroom in 1986, I also had a drop bench so I could make quite large pints 30"x24" and larger on rolls of paper.

Ian
I'll PM you Ian.

Mike
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  #13  
Old 22nd November 2020, 10:02 AM
davidgc davidgc is offline
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Thanks all for your advice.
I was hoping not to make any permanent fixings (holes etc) to the column or the worktop, but bolting through the work top seems the most secure method, it would also save fixing a bracket to the wall at the top of the column.
The M670 has a reasonable size metal plate (removeable) below the baseboard so it may just need longer length bolts. However, it may be worth sandwiching the worktop with another metal plate on top given the IKEA worktop may not be designed for such localised weight.
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  #14  
Old 22nd November 2020, 04:05 PM
John King John King is offline
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Whatever you fix it onto make sure it is perfectly perpendicular in all plains.Check the baseboard whatever you use is EXACTLY at 90 degrees to the column and the column is absolutely vertical all the way up. Any shift from that you can make shims to go under the corner of the mount to bring it back into place.
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  #15  
Old Yesterday, 09:33 AM
davidgc davidgc is offline
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I suppose that is the beauty of using the baseboard that comes with an enlarger is that it is already perpendicular to the column, no matter what angle the underlying surface angle.
I am now wondering whether to reinstall the units and worktop at a lower level, I probably have a couple of cm's to play with, but then the wall is already looking like Swiss Cheese after my first installation.
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  #16  
Old Yesterday, 08:38 PM
Nat Polton Nat Polton is offline
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[QUOTE=davidgc;136881]I suppose that is the beauty of using the baseboard that comes with an enlarger is that it is already perpendicular to the column, no matter what angle the underlying surface angle.


As the old song says, "It ain't necessarily so."

After watching "The Naked Photographer on Youtube talking about enlarger alignment, I decided to check out my Durst M605.

I always assumed the column, base and head would be square.
I fitted jacking screws to the baseboard in place of the card shims I had been using.
With the base leveled using the jacking screws and a spirit level, the head tilted forward slightly.

I shimmed out the very bottom of the column were it was bolted to the column base bracket. Shims place between the column and bracket. This got the head level front to back. Then I tweaked the lateral level using a flat metal bar and spirit level in place of the negative carrier.

Empty aluminium beer tins cut up with old scissors make excellent packing shims. Bit sharp, so go careful.

Probably the reason I have never notice any un sharpness is I always stop the lens down a good few stops when making exposures.

Cheers.
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