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#1
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Storing processed film
It is nearly time for me to process my first role of film (using a patterson tank as I do not have a dark room as such yet). I was wondering how people store film once they have developed it? It could be weeks or months before I set up a dark room and obtain an enlarger and been new to film photography have purchased a paterson super system 4 and iilford developer, fixer, stop bath set from eBay. Been the case that I cannot develop prints yet I need to store the film until I can and continue to store it after.
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#2
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You need some negative file sheets, widely available, normally for 35mm the negatives are stored in six strips of six negatives, for120 depends on what format, for 645 it is 4 strips of 4, for 66 it is 4 strips of 3, I use ringbinders to store the sheets in, the type from WH Smiths,
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#3
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Luke, there tends to be 2 sorts of neg sheets; one that is clear so the negs can be printed through and so don't need to be removed. And the other which means that the negs need to be removed in order to make a contact print.
Not everyone makes contact sheets but I do and therefore prefer the clear acetate ones.
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MartyNL “Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.” - Minor White, 1950 |
#4
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If it is 35mm film you are using, I can put half a dozen sheets in the post for you, just to get you started.
These will be the non see through type, so you will need to remove the negs to print. If you are interested, just PM me. Ian
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Learn to live, live to learn |
#5
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Developing film.
Strictly speaking, it is not necessary to have a darkroom to develop a film. If you can buy what is called a changing bag. These are usually made up from two layers of light proof material closed by zips and with two elasticated holes where you insert your hands and forearms to load the film into the tank. Google.. AG Photographic who are in Birmingham or Firstcall Photographic who are in Taunton, they both sell changing bags.
These bags bags are typically around 2 feet square made from lightproof material, closed with a double zip and two holes through which you insert your hands to load the film. make sure that you have put everything you may need into the bag before you start. Open the cassette inside the bag and load it onto the film spiral. This you may/will find tricky at first so it is good practise if you can get hold of a rubbish film which is still in the cassette. Remove this film and practise in daylight to load the spiral. Once you are confident enough do it for real, It will soon become 2nd nature. If your camera is one that winds the film right back ito the cassette you will have to open it to get at the film, so you will need a 'Brewers Spanner', in other words a bottle opener, to get the cassette end off. Remove the film completely and you will find that it loads easier if you start at the end with the last exposure. If you have one that leaves the leader film protruding, pull it out slightly and cut off the leader strip and round off the edges. This will let it load easier. Make sure the spiral is absolutely bone dry, or as sure as day follows night, the film will stick and never load.. Going back to one of your initial questions. Yes you can store it, preferably in the original cassette tub in the fridge, however before loading it onto the spiral, leave it out of the fridge for an hour or two, so that the room temp can raise the temp of the film, or it may attract condensation. Last edited by John King; 30th October 2016 at 05:58 PM. |
#6
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I have found these on Amazon for £20 although they are double the price of some others i was wondering if they are better quality or provide other protection? Hama 002251 24 x 36mm Negative File Sleeves and Glassine Matt 100 Sheets.
Thanks for all the help everyone and thanks for the offer Ian. In terms of dark bags I have a room where I can load film onto cassettes but will definitely be buying one for when I'm in the field so to speak they are a great idea |
#7
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Luke, there are two types of negative sleeve.
1. GLASSENE. These are not regarded as "archival" though there are plenty of people, myself included, who have kept negatives in them for donkey's years without any ill effect. They are not clear, so to view negatives against the light - to inspect them - you have to remove the strip from the sleeve. A slight disadvantage. Advantages are they are cheap, and a generous width so it is easy to slide the strip of negatives in. 2. POLYESTER. These are completely clear. Their advantages are A. Negatives can be viewed and inspected without removing them from the sleeve. B. They are "archival" (whatever that means!) C. If you want to make contact prints you don't need a special contact printing frame. All you do is place the printing paper down under a light source, lay the sleeve of negatives on top, place a sheet of glass on top of that to hold everything flat, then make the exposure. Disadvantages of Polyester are A. The cost - about four times the price of Glassene. B. Slightly difficult to insert negatives. Further information to add to the confusion... If you contact print 35mm negatives with a contact printing frame you can do the whole lot -all 36 (in six strips) onto 10 x 8inch paper, but you have to insert all six strips individually into the frame. If you contact print with a Polyester sleeve and glass, as described above, you don't need a special contact printing frame, you don't need to remove the negative strips from the sleeve, but for 35mm you will need a bigger sheet of paper. 8 x 10 inch won't cover it so you will need 12 x 9.5 inch. My advice would be to buy the smallest pack you can of each type, and see what you think. If you then decide to go with glassene you could still use the polyester for contact printing. Alan |
#8
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Luke, I recommend the clear polyethylene ones. I have stored negs in them for almost 40 years with no degradation. I use Print File brand, which are pretty reasonably priced on this side of the pond (US$15 for a 100 pack; US$5 for 25). If you plan to shoot a lot, buying a bulk pack of 100 sheets becomes considerably cheaper than small packs.
Another big advantage of these is that you easily inspect a whole roll with a loupe on a small light panel (also highly recommended; the small LED ones are now quite inexpensive) without removing the negs from the sleeves. This is not only convenient, but also protects the negs from scratches, fingerprints (unless you use gloves) and dust. I find the extra cost over glassine well worth it for this reason alone. Look at it this way: you've spent a lot of time and money getting the gear to shoot the films, then more to actually venture out to get the shots and then develop them; it's not worth it to cheap out here on protecting them. Hope this helps... Cheers, Svend |
#9
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I also like the Printfile polythene sheets, but they have become expensive and difficult to find in the UK at present. Firstcall do a similar product that is quite reasonable and I am now using. The clear, print through sleeves are, in my opinion, much more useful if you intend doing your own printing.
Alex |
#10
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The only place,AFIK, that does printfile, is silverprint but the clearfile, as stocked by Firstcall, is very good and seems good value, I use them myself, they are made by the same US company that makes the Printfile pages, Polyetlelene pages are very good for archival storage
Richard
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