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> White suspension in a new bottle of Hypam |
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#11
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Quote:
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#12
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Like Richard, it takes me longer than the recommended time by Ilford, for me to get through my 5 litre container's worth of fixer.
I too decant it into 1 litre bottles etc. and have never had a problem, right down to the last drop. But I also give it a squirt of 'gas' to be on the safe side, although I believe that it doesn't oxidises as quickly as developer does. Terry S |
#13
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Quote:
It is always a good practice to date when you originally decanted any chemicals. You can then go further to reduce the oxygenation of the remaining chemical by filling the rest of the container with an inert gas such as Protectan (available from Silverprint, AG and others good photographic retailers and FADU sponsors) Because fixer does not discolour as it ages, you need to check the effectiveness of your fixer from time to time - particularly as you exceed the manufacturers recommended life of the chemical. Simple Fixer effectiveness test 1) Mix up a working solution of your fixer. 2) Take a 75 mm (3 inch) strip of your typical 35 mm film. 3) Dip 25 mm (1 inch) of the film strip in to the fixer solution and leave it there for 3+ minutes. 4) Insert a further 25mm of the film strip in to the fixer and start a stop watch 5) Watch and wait for the second 25mm portion to achieve the same level of film clarity as the first 25 mm portion. Record the time taken. 6) Your film fixing time should be twice the time it took for the fixer to clear the second 25 mm of film. 7) Do not exceed the manufacturers stated fixing capacity. 8) Typically, fixer is considered to be to old to be worth bothering with if the clearing time for fresh fixer is now significantly greater (increase of 50% ?) than needed to achieve (5) when the fixer was both new and fresh. Many of us don’t use the full quoted fixing capacity of our fixer when it is older than the manufactures recommended shelf life. Also remember that any photographic chemical can be store for much longer if it is neat (undiluted) – typically measured in months, than when it is in a working solution– typically measured in days. Hope this helps. Martin |
#14
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A variation on the fixer test time measurement is to put a spot of fixer on the emulsion side and pause for say a minute and then suspend the bit of film in the fixer and measure the time taken for the spot to dissapear. I use tweezers to hold the bit of film in the fixer.
Tony |
#15
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I just popa small piece of undeveloped film into a beaker of fixer and swill it around until it is clear (I fix with constant agitation). As others suggest I double that time. Once the time to clear of subsequent use of that batch of working strength fixer reaches +50% I dump it.
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#16
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Why do you use Hypam?
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Mitch http://photomi7ch.blogspot.com/ If you eliminate the impossible whatever remains no matter how improbable must be the truth. |
#17
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#18
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Ilford Rapid Fix???
I have found out that the only advantage of Hypam is that you can use hardener with it but not with Rapid Fix. Beyond that I do not know what the difference is and permits even this. Mike |
#19
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Thank you gent for your answers.
I know what it is, Why have you chosen to use Hypam.
__________________
Mitch http://photomi7ch.blogspot.com/ If you eliminate the impossible whatever remains no matter how improbable must be the truth. |
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