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  #11  
Old 4th December 2010, 07:56 AM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Originally Posted by MartyNL View Post
OK, I've put my order in for the paper and dev.
Ilford Warmtone & Ilford Multigrade for a neutral tone (my standard and therefore control dev). I've gone for these two developers as I've used Ilford products for decades and I have complete faith in their quality control.

Santa's going to be busy and I hope it's all going to be available in time for my Xmas hols, I'll have to wait and see. Most of it will be coming from Matt at AG Photographic and is either A4 size or 8x10.
My control paper is Ilford MG IV FB glossy and here's the list of the rest;

Fomabrom Varient VC FB 111
Fomatone 'Chamois' 542
Fomatone 'Nature' 532
Fomatone MG 131
Ilford MG FB Warmtone
Kentmere Fineprint FB
ADOX Variotone Premium FB
ADOX MCC 110 FB
Adox Fine Print Vario Classic
New Seagull VC-FBII
New Seagull VC-FBII WT


The aim and testing procedures are based on the principle of trying to get the best possible image quality out of each paper, within parameters. Therefore I was planning to do the following;
-Use the same neg, equipment (settings) through-out the exercise.
-Determine exposure times and filtration individually.
-Use fresh chemicals from the outset.
-Use my standard processing times and finishing.
-Take notes methodically!
-Use 1 dev at a time and not even attempt to do both together.

Please feel free to comment, as I would appreciate any advice or input before I start. Or indeed, if I've forgotten anything.
As a comparison test I think your plane is a good one. I've just one question, do you develop for a fixed time or by inspection?
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  #12  
Old 4th December 2010, 10:18 AM
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MartyNL MartyNL is offline
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My standard dev time is 3mins. for FB.

Only because I find it hard to judge by inspection and have known my results to be too inconsistant and erratic. I'm pleased for those who can manage it but I don't feel comfortable judging prints by safe light.

I feel like I've wasted too much time and materials in the past so if something goes a miss, I'd rather start a fresh.


What would you suggest about marking the prints to be able to clearly identify them afterwards?
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  #13  
Old 4th December 2010, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MartyNL View Post
SNIP;

What would you suggest about marking the prints to be able to clearly identify them afterwards?
Marty, I've never tested as many papers that you list in one session, usually only a few at a time and for identification purposes I cut a bit off of each corner - of course you then have to remember which corner refers to the corresponding paper Write it down as you go is the key here.

You could always use a series of small notches cut into the edge of the papers a bit like film notches. Or a series of small pin pricks will have the same effect.
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  #14  
Old 4th December 2010, 11:57 AM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartyNL View Post
My standard dev time is 3mins. for FB.

Only because I find it hard to judge by inspection and have known my results to be too inconsistant and erratic. I'm pleased for those who can manage it but I don't feel comfortable judging prints by safe light.

I feel like I've wasted too much time and materials in the past so if something goes a miss, I'd rather start a fresh.


What would you suggest about marking the prints to be able to clearly identify them afterwards?
I agree that development by time is the most consistent method.

I suggest that you write a note on the back of the paper of the paper type, developer and any other variables immediately after you have made the exposure and before you develop using a soft pencil.
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  #15  
Old 4th December 2010, 12:48 PM
Tom Kershaw Tom Kershaw is offline
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A few tips:

- I wouldn't bother with Oriental Seagull II.

- ILFORD MGIV can work very well depending on the negative; however it often isn't a particularly good match for my negatives. - seems to work well with XP2 Super negatives.

- I've found Adox MCC 110 to be perhaps the most flexible, high quality paper around unless one wants a "dedicated" warmtone paper such as MGWT or Adox Premium Variotone.

- ILFORD Galerie is another excellent choice if contrast matches with the negative.

Tom
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  #16  
Old 4th December 2010, 01:10 PM
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Marty -

I will be following your progress here with great interest. Only other thing I can think of is toning. I don't know if that is part of your process or within the scope of this project.

Great project and thanks for sharing it with us.
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  #17  
Old 4th December 2010, 04:38 PM
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Same here Marty, I'm very much looking forward to seeing the results.
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  #18  
Old 5th December 2010, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MartyNL View Post
I'm thinking about treating myself at Christmas and breaking 'a habit of a lifetime' by trying out some new papers.

After years of standardisation you've raised my curiousity to see what's out there and if I'm really missing anything?
And it'll be good for me not to take things too seriously in the darkroom.

So this is my plan; to buy some 10x8 packs of ten sheets and do some of my own experiments/comparisons and in a couple of different developers, but nothing too exotic at this stage as you can imagine. One step at a time folks!
It's mainly for me to get an idea of the look and feel of different brands rather than just stick with my regular Ilford MGIV FB. And no amount of reading on the net can possibly substitute hands-on experience of these products.

I only have one real criterion, and call me a paper snob, but it must be FB.

So I've started by making an inventory of the different paper manufacturers and I'd appreciate knowing if my list is complete?

Ilford/Kentmere
Foma
Adox
Tetenal
Oriental
Bergger
Rollei
Interesting, although not all of the brand names mentioned in your list are actually manufacturers of photographic papers.
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  #19  
Old 5th December 2010, 02:39 PM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Tapscott. View Post
Interesting, although not all of the brand names mentioned in your list are actually manufacturers of photographic papers.
That's true Keith, but it doesn't mean that the papers are not formulated differently.
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  #20  
Old 5th December 2010, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
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That's true Keith, but it doesn't mean that the papers are not formulated differently.
Yes at this point in for a penny in for a pound. I might as well test whatever's available just to satisfy my curiousity.

I'll also be contacting Linhof House to see about getting hold of some Bergger.
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