Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free:   AG Photographic   The Imaging Warehouse   Process Supplies   RH Designs   Second-hand Darkroom Supplies  

Notices

Go Back   Film and Darkroom User > Colour Work > Colour printing techniques

  ***   Click here for the FADU 2015/2014 Yearbooks   ***

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 7th May 2012, 12:51 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Glasgow, Scotland.
Posts: 2,668
Default Paterson Auto Colortherm

I have acquired one of these and need some help/advice about using it.Should the water bath level cover the heating element completely? The point where it enters the unit is quite high up on the tank. Is it ok to have water covering the base of the motor unit? My heater seems to be working, but nothing happens when I switch the motor unit on. Does it need to reach the set temperature first, or is it broken? You will no doubt have gathered that it came without the instruction manual! Any help\advice will be most welcome.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 7th May 2012, 03:02 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Daventry, Northants
Posts: 8,969
Default

Based on the Jobo processor I'd say yes it has to cover the element. Also on the Jobo the water comes quite high up the open water bath so you'd think the Paterson might follow the same pattern.

Try setting the water temp as low as possible. At or below room temp would be ideal. If the motor doesn't work at that point then it would suggest the motor unit isn't working.
Again and only based on my Jobo the heater element for the water is I think a separate unit from my motor for turning the drum so one could work and not the other irrespective of water temp.

Finally on the Jobo the water level does touch the bottom of the drum/tank. This is to ensure that the drum is constantly running in the right temp of water to keep the liquid inside the drum/tank at the right temp.

I hope this helps but I am sure someone here will know more about the Paterson set-up

Mike
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 7th May 2012, 07:17 PM
CambsIan's Avatar
CambsIan CambsIan is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 1,326
Default

Hi Alexmuir, I have a set of instructions that I can scan and let you have " over the wire "

The ammount of water needed is 13ltrs. I've only used mine so far for film, C-41 and E6 process. Unit works well as a tempering box, and with careful control can hold the chemicals temp to quite a tight tolerance, youdon't need the motor for that, so all is not lost.

PM me with your email address if you would like a copy of the instructions. Will take me a few days to get it to you though.

Ian

Last edited by CambsIan; 7th May 2012 at 07:20 PM. Reason: re-read and altered
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 8th May 2012, 10:45 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Glasgow, Scotland.
Posts: 2,668
Default

Thanks for the advice. I have since discovered the motor drive belt is broken, but I'm sure I can fix that. I have sent PM to Ian for instruction manual. I have never done any colour printing, but realized recently that I have all the necessary equipment to give it a go. I am hoping to improve on the minilab quality of print I have always had with colour negative film.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 8th May 2012, 11:07 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Daventry, Northants
Posts: 8,969
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmuir View Post
. I have never done any colour printing, but realized recently that I have all the necessary equipment to give it a go. I am hoping to improve on the minilab quality of print I have always had with colour negative film.
It depends on the minilab I suppose but it does have facilities available to it that makes colour balance easier to achieve than the home darkroom person can without a bit of "cut and try" initially.

There is a learning curve involved and while I am sure you can achieve the quality of a good lab and better than the quality of a poor lab, I'd caution against expecting great results at the first session.

Nothing worthwhile is instant. Best of luck


Mike
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 9th May 2012, 03:44 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Glasgow, Scotland.
Posts: 2,668
Default

Thanks for the advice, Mike. I can't see colour work replacing my normal interest in monochrome, but I'm a great believer in trying something new. I had been given some equipment last year which has just been gathering dust, so I thought I would give it a go. Once I get the processor running I will no doubt be back looking for more answers!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 9th May 2012, 04:53 PM
CambsIan's Avatar
CambsIan CambsIan is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 1,326
Default

Hi Alex,

Instructions on the way, hope they help. If you don't get both emails just drop me a line and I'll resend as necessary.

Ian
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 27th May 2012, 06:29 AM
CambsIan's Avatar
CambsIan CambsIan is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 1,326
Default Printing

Hi Alex,

Managed to find time to do any printing yet ? If you have would like to discuss any pitfalls. I now have the chemicals and paper for colour so would be interested in how you got on.

Ian
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 29th May 2012, 10:36 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Glasgow, Scotland.
Posts: 2,668
Default

Hi Ian. I haven't managed anything yet because of a fault I have discovered in the processor. The motor drive belt has perished, and i'm trying to get a replacement. I emailed Paterson to see if they had a spare, but no reply yet. I will keep trying. I needed a colour analyser and got a Phillips model on ebay. It has a continental plug, but I should be able to get an adapter. Once I get these things sorted, I will get the paper, etc and get printing. I used my first colour film for years at the weekend, so that was a step in the right direction!
Regards, Alex
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 29th May 2012, 10:46 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
Friend
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Daventry, Northants
Posts: 8,969
Default

Alex, I think and hope that the Phillips analyser is the same model as the Paterson one. If so, it's pretty good and will get you good prints in probably 99 out of a 100 negs. It is only fooled when one colour predominates in the print. With outdoor prints this almost never happens and if it does you will get a feel of the right way to go in these cases once you have done some prints.

I hope you get help on the drive belt from Paterson

Mike
Reply With Quote
Reply
Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free:   AG Photographic   The Imaging Warehouse   Process Supplies   RH Designs   Second-hand Darkroom Supplies  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Konica Auto S2. Focussing problem Rob Archer Cameras - small format 1 19th February 2012 09:30 PM
Prinz Auto TLR Free to good home. Peter S Sale or Wanted 9 20th February 2011 07:30 AM
Konica Auto S2 Rob Archer Cameras - small format 3 21st November 2010 03:54 PM
Paterson Orbital yet again Michael Monochrome Film 4 14th March 2010 10:49 PM
Olympus Auto Bellows Rob Archer Cameras - small format 7 1st January 2009 11:18 PM


All times are GMT. The time now is 07:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.