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> Delta 400 exposed at 100 iso |
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#1
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Delta 400 exposed at 100 iso
I shot a roll of colour film recently (100 ISO) for the first time in years and then forgot to change the ISO back to 400 when I was finished with it. I have since shot a roll of Delta 400 only discovering at the end my error. So it would like that I have overexposed my film by 2 stops, I now need to underdevelope it using stock ID11 but by how much ? I feel I have some good shots on it and would like a chance to print them. Thanks for any advice offered.
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Cheers Vincent - Not afraid of the dark |
#2
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Hi Vincent,
The very best option would be to use a two-bath developer. If you use ID11 do not reduce the time by more than 10% otherwise you will get muddy mid-tones. Best.
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David, d.s.allen, fotograf dsallenberlin@gmail.com http://dsallen.carpentier-galerie.de |
#3
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If you have important images on your film, buy some Perceptol and try 12 minutes in stock solution at 20*C.
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#4
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ID11 1+2 for 10 mins @ 20degC
Should be no problems. Maybe slightly less contrast in the neg than you are used to but easily printable. |
#5
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I would develop in rodinal 1/50 for 18 minutes, I find that you lose about 1 1/2 stop with rodinal so although you would have perhaps a bit mor contrast than normal the ensuing negatives should print fine,
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#6
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I once exposed two 120 rolls of Neopan 400 at 100 and reduced the developing time by 15%. ID11 1:1.
Some years back so I can't remember the times off the top of my head but the overall tonality was rather nice and only slightly/barely noticeable lacking the contrast "bite" I usually like. |
#7
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I would develop normally. Here's why:
Most black and white films actually give the best results at about one stop slower than box speed. This lifts shadow detail, sometimes important shadow detail, up off the toe. Modern T-grain films like Delta have shorter toes and almost no shoulder, but they can often still benefit from slightly more exposure. The trade off is more grain, but these films are finer grained to begin with. Secondly, if you under develop you will reduce contrast. You don't need particularly flat negatives. Not under developing accidentally over exposed film was more important with conventional films, because the over exposure would put highlights into the shoulder where they would print flatter and reducing development would make that worse. That's not much of a concern with T-Max or Delta but you can still reduce midtone separation and require a pretty hard printing paper or filter to make a good print. I certainly would be even more careful than usual not to overdevelop but otherwise, I'd take a little hit in grain and let it go. Results should still be really good. |
#8
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Let us know how you developed it in the end and how it turned out.
I guess 6 different suggestions may be more unsettling than confidence building. |
#9
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Quote:
I just meant to say I wouldn't reduce development too much, at least not more than 10% or so (which should still give decent tonal separation and print easily enough, maybe on one grade harder than usual paper/filter.) Hope this didn't further confuse things! |
#10
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I'm thinking that I might stick with ID11 (stock solution) and go for 8.5 minutes @ 20 degrees C. I'll scan in some of the results.
Thanks everyone for your help and contributions, this is what makes this site so valuable.
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Cheers Vincent - Not afraid of the dark Last edited by vincent; 31st October 2011 at 05:28 PM. |
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