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> Mounting etc |
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#1
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Mounting etc
So, What is the up to-date thoughts on mounting prints..?
What do I mount to..? What do I mount with..? Where do I find materials..? All for RC prints, just to show off at home or give to friends. Not for exhibition purposes Matt |
#2
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Mounting on card mount board, or foam board, using spray adhesive works well. The materials can be chosen to promote longevity, or you can just use basic stuff if you’re not sending your pictures into the next Century! Art and craft suppliers like Hobbycraft, etc sell the boards and glue. I don’t know if you travel to Glasgow much, but there’s a Hobbycraft in the Fort retail park off the M8 at Easterhouse. Given your location, it might be difficult or expensive to have stuff sent to you. 3M make the glue. You lay the print face down on some newspaper, then give the back a light overall coating, before positioning it on the board.
There are, of course, many more sophisticated methods, but this was what we did at my evening class, and it produced decent results. Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#3
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I travel over the Erskine and south about once every six weeks or so, so I could call in at the Hobbycraft place easily enough on one of my trips. Quote:
Thanks so far for the info. Last edited by longhouselife; 14th February 2019 at 08:40 PM. |
#4
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Hi Matt. (your name is very apt considering your question )
Here's what I do to frame my prints (same needs as you, just to hang around the house): - Acid-free mat board, which I cut to size with a basic Olfa knife, and cut the window with a simple Logan mat cutter; the cutter is a bit fiddly but does the job once you get to know how to use it. Mine is an old version of this design: http://www.logangraphic.com/product/...ld-mat-cutter/ - Tape the print along it's top edge only to the back of the mat using archival mounting tape, which you can find at art supply stores. I do the top edge only so that changes in temp and RH won't buckle the print, it just hangs freely and is allowed to move. Note that I do not dry mount my prints. - Sandwich the print from the back with another piece of acid-free mat board to protect it from chemicals in the frame backing sheet, then insert into frame. And that's it.... Simple. One thing I do want to do going forward is to standardize my frame sizes to make it easier to rotate prints in and out. Makes it easier on the mat sizing, etc., if all frames for, say, 8x10 prints are the same size. Hope this helps.... Svend Last edited by Svend; 14th February 2019 at 08:24 PM. |
#5
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There are different ways of cutting mounts. Big, roller cutters like Rotatrim are excellent, but expensive and bulky. You can find alternatives, however, depending on what you need to do. Logan make a mount cutting knife which is cheap, but of good quality. You use it with a steel rule, preferably a safety type. There’s another device that cuts 45 degree edges for window mounts. It also runs along a steel rule. It’s made by Olfa. I don’t recall it being expensive either. You can make quite presentable mounts with basic equipment.
Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#6
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Matt, this is a slightly fancier version of my old one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOGAN-Delux...gan+mat+cutter And my simple version (newer model): https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOGAN-Delux...gan+mat+cutter Pretty reasonable prices, I'd say. It cuts the bevel window. The trick is to use a long straight edge with a grippy backing so that it doesn't slip. With a bit of practice and a sharp blade it gives great results. |
#7
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Cost is always in the eye of the beholder Thank you for the links though, I can bookmark them and decide between film or mat's for the next month or two
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#8
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Cheers, Svend |
#9
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Often difficult to gauge where a particular user might be in these terms. Many more separate threads could be started on the philosophy of why we undertake what we do in the way we do. |
#10
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