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Developing Sheet Film in a Paterson Orbital Processor
Trevor Crone
21st February 2011
I use a Paterson Orbital for processing 5x7 and 8x10 film and if I only need to process one or two sheets of 4x5. I have two processors, one with the fins still in place and one where Iíve removed them and all I can say is film processed in either are identical, very evenly developed. However some...
  #20  
By Dave miller on 16th July 2012, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by numnutz View Post
I use a Patterson Orbital - I found I have to remove the fins as some negatives suffered from bromide drag in sky areas (Foma and Rollie IR). I used little drops of fish tank silicon sealant to keep the film from the base. I also use the motorised base as I feel this give a more uniform (although continuous) agitation. At the moment I am using 200ml of solution(s) although I did start by using 100ml. Any one using more or less? Mostly I develop 4 sheets of 5 x 4 film, only occasionally 10 x 8.

nn
I suspect that the bromide drag that you refer to may be caused by the use of the motor base giving a regular repeting flow pattern rather than the fins; have you tried using it with manual slopping?
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  #21  
By paulc on 16th July 2012, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by numnutz View Post
At the moment I am using 200ml of solution(s) although I did start by using 100ml. Any one using more or less? Mostly I develop 4 sheets of 5 x 4 film
I usually aim for 300ml of developer regardless of the number of sheets being processed. Of late though, I have been using 400ml - In both cases, on a motorised base.
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  #22  
By numnutz on 16th July 2012, 05:03 PM
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...bromide drag that you refer to may be caused by the use of the motor base giving a regular repeating flow pattern
I haven't had any Bromide drag since removing the fins although I have noticed that when processing the processor actually rotates slightly on the motor base whereas I didn't notice that before...

nn
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  #23  
By Dave miller on 16th July 2012, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by numnutz View Post
I haven't had any Bromide drag since removing the fins although I have noticed that when processing the processor actually rotates slightly on the motor base whereas I didn't notice that before...

nn
All mine have fins and they slowly rotate on my motor base.
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  #24  
By Adrian on 17th July 2012, 12:13 PM
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I have an orbital developing tank. I had streaks from the fins on every negative. I just removed the fins. You might need more than a stanley knife to do it though. I used a modeller's saw. First I tried cutting the fin off from the underside in one piece - this is not very easy to do neetly. The other I cut off from the top in three sections - diagonals then cut off the bit left in the middle - much easier. A bit of emery paper finished off the job. No more marks!

Whilst on the subject, the other modifications I made were the little round stick-on feet in the base - that works well. However, I replaced the red "golf tees" with platic Printed Circuit Board (PCB) mounting pillars which have larger "heads". This stops the negatives from occasionally riding up over the top of each other.
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  #25  
By Gavin on 17th July 2012, 05:28 PM
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I went with the door buffers as Dave suggested. After cutting around one dome I realised that the domes are pre cut inside the sheet I've never come across this before but hey ho.

Because these are much smaller than Trevor's I used more than I first imagined to.

Thank you to Trevor and Dave. Not long now and I can get it fired up.
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  #26  
By Trevor Crone on 17th July 2012, 07:27 PM
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Looks the ticket Gavin hope all goes well.

If you find the film starts to drift over the little red pegs that come with the Orbital there are several suggestions on the Forum for over coming this problem. Adrian mentions PCB pegs, others have used match sticks, etc.

I fashioned a set from 3mm acrylic rod bought on Ebay for a few 'bob'. I than caped the rod with 'tiddly wink' counters someone gave me. They are 25mm tall and each counter was drilled using a 2.5mm drill. The rods were then carefully filed at the tip to ensure a tight fit. No glue was used.
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  #27  
By Gavin on 17th July 2012, 08:38 PM
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Thank you Trevor. Can I ask, are the new pegs 25mm high from the tray bottom or 25mm pre fit? I imagine post fit but I'm crossing the T's here.

My apologies for making your article a thread Trevor but hopefully this process will benefit new readers.
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  #28  
By Trevor Crone on 17th July 2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Gavin View Post
Thank you Trevor. Can I ask, are the new pegs 25mm high from the tray bottom or 25mm pre fit? I imagine post fit but I'm crossing the T's here.

My apologies for making your article a thread Trevor but hopefully this process will benefit new readers.
Gavin they are 25mm pre-fit. Don't apologise, I agree all input may prove helpful to new readers.
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  #29  
By big paul on 4th July 2017, 12:03 AM
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this site is a mine of information ..thanks FADU and all the members
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