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  #11  
Old 25th May 2015, 03:11 PM
davidgc davidgc is offline
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Thanks David and Jonathan.
I always tend to follow the manufacturer's specifications and use the fact sheets religiously, but in this instance, for the fixing and stop bath, I only read the front of the bottles !!

David
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  #12  
Old 25th May 2015, 03:28 PM
youngrichard youngrichard is offline
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Default What are these stop baths?

I'm just pragmatic. I use fixer diluted 1 : 4 for film and paper but for some reason keep them in separate 1 litre plastic bottles marked Fix Film and Fix Paper. Before any session I test with old torn off film leader; when clearing time reaches one minute (it's usually 1/2 minute when fresh) i.e. clearing time has doubled, it is chucked. Now, here is the interesting bit. I don't use a stop bath because I don't have space for 3 trays, especially when printing 20 x 16. But fixer is cheap (everything is cheap compared to film and paper) so it is straight from developer to fixer. I am sure fixer would last longer if I stopped; but as far as I know the fixer stops development just as quickly. I don't remember ever using a stop bath in 40 + years of B/W printing, though I probably did 50 years ago when wet behind the ears. I still have a few contact prints that I made from my Vest Pocket Kodak 127 folder 60 years ago.
Perhaps I should add that I use only RC paper so all the gunk washes out in 3 minutes in running water; that may help. I don't expect anyone to be admiring my photos in a hundred years' time, so FB and archival printing is not for me. I think RC paper and MG came in 1970s (correct me if I am wrong please) and 40 years later prints are in excellent shape.
Richard
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  #13  
Old 26th May 2015, 12:16 PM
Adrian Adrian is offline
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I use Ilford chemistry.

It's a good idea to keep print and film fix/stop separately because it enables the usage to be tracked (as per manufacturers' data sheets). For film, I strike a tally on the fix and stop bath bottles for each film processed (35mm film equivalents based on surface area). When I reach the manufacturer's recommended number of films I dump it and make up fresh solution.

For prints I use a Nova slot processor most of the time so I replenish 100ml per 10 8x10 prints - keeping a tally on the side of the processor.
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  #14  
Old 27th May 2015, 06:38 AM
cesare cesare is offline
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From experience, under-fixed film tends to have some dye left in the base. It's pretty obvious if you pull out a film and find it's still purple that it needs more fixing ;-)

I tend to use 1+5 (ish) for my fix, and re-use it for film and paper. My film processor single shots the chemistry, so I rarely put paper through chemistry that has developed film, but do use fix that has processed paper on film.
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  #15  
Old 28th May 2015, 12:13 PM
davidgc davidgc is offline
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Thanks all. This is a great forum/ site. I am learning every day !

David
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