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> Help with Tetanal C41 Kit |
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#11
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Ron Mowrey, a retired Kodak chemist and acknowledged expert, suggests 10ml 37% Formalin per litre of working strength Photo Flo - I'd imagine Ilfotol or Tween 20 would work as well as Photo Flo. The only real problem would be purchasing formaldehyde solution (Formalin) in small quantities. |
#12
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nn |
#13
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Thanks, nn. Having used the Tetenal kits many years ago I now recall that it was one of the few that stated that dev temp could be reduced with a corresponding increase in time.
However when using a Jobo processor I always stuck to the 100 degrees Fahrenheit with 3 mins 15 secs as I had read from others more experienced than me that a lower temp wasn't ideal. I never noticed streaking with the Jobo processor and the 1500 series of tanks but I recognise that there might be advantages in terms of control of temp by using lower temps unless you have a thermostatically controlled Jobo which the OP doesn't have. I'd certainly be interested in the outcomes from anyone who has used a Tetenal kit at a lower temp. Mike |
#14
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The formalin content of C41 stabiizer toughens the gelatine and shrinks it so that the water content reduces, accelerating drying.
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#15
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Domestic dishwasher rinse-aid is chemically identical to photographic wetting agents and may be cheaper and easier to obtain locally.
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#16
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Well I got round to developing 2 rolls yesterday without using stabiliser and they came out okay. I developed for 3min 30 secs but I might try and leave for another 15-30 seconds next time to see if it gives any more colour & contrast. Its hard to determine if I can improve the negs as the film was only cheap Agfa 200 or old expired Fuji 400 (expired in 2003) so colour is going to be a bit faded anyway.
My process was; - wash & rinse in the heated water 38c - Develop for 3min 30 sec @38c - Blix for 6min 30 sec @35-37c - Then rinse with warm tap water - Finally I rinsed the film with Tetenal Mirasol (which I have been using for b&w development) Overall I am finding colour developing quite easy, the only ball ache is getting the temperature spot on, other than that I am finding it easier than b&w. Chris |
#17
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As you have discovered, you do not need stabiliser and will not for a long time, maybe if ever. Modern C41 films are much better and tougher than previously.
I'll need to do some more research as to exactly how essential stabiliser is in the long term( certainly we are talking years here) and under what conditions C41 negs are more or less susceptible to age related problems Mike |
#18
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Hi, Chris.
Glad to see things turned out well with C-41. If you encountered color and contrast problems with expired film I would also trying to give a bit more exposure to make up for speed loss due to age. Regarding the development time, to give you a term of comparison, according to Kodak each 30" more exposure is equivalent to 1 stop push. Cheers, M. |
#19
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I second this. I am really satisfied with Digibase results.
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c41, tetanal |
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