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#11
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Effect of Halides
The long term effect would probably be very similar to a print being insufficiently washed. This can be reduced or eliminated by something like rinse aid which nulifies the effect.
Looking at it from another angle, there is very little for the residual halides to cling on to with resin coated paper - I assume that is what you are using. The problem would in all probability manifest itself more with fibre based paper, where the halides could penetrate the fibres and 'hide' from the running water in a water bath. Just to give you confidence however, I have a series of prints for my two RPS panels which are now 12 and 14 years old and they are not showing any deterioration despite mimimal washing. Then I have half a dozen prints from the early 60's which are not too bad considering they also had minimal washing. They are only now starting to 'go'. All of these early prints were on fibre based paper. |
#12
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Probably nothing to panic about then. I have used quite a lot of FB paper recently, but fortunately my washing procedure is rigorous. Hypo clear and anything up to an hour in a archival print washer.
Just to be safe I'll probably mix separate batches of stop bath and fixer in future though. |
#13
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Washing prints
Quote:
careful |
#14
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No, not likely! - although the print washer doesn't flow a massive amount of water. It's an old Paterson unit which uses a water powered piston to move the paper rack back and forth. Sounds like a steam engine.
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#15
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Quote:
No doubt you will say it works for you, but it isn't a method I would like to use. Much simpler to mix a litre of working strength fix, keep a note of how many sheets go through it, then ditch it when it has reached its capacity. Alan |
#16
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Quote:
...You probably should not use a fixer for paper that you used for film because the Iodide in film slows down fixation and can cause some image tone shifts. OTOH, this does not mean that you cannot. You just need longer fix times and longer wash times." He did not offer how much longer fix times and wash times should be or offer details regarding image tone shift. Both would be of concern to me, so now I have to prepare separate containers for use film fixer and used paper fixer. Dang! I'm already hurting for space to store chem containers. But, I do appreciate the heads up. |
#17
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Replen
Alan your maths may be accurate for Ilford fixer but with replenishment, sometimes, no, usually every time, there is carry over and more fresh fixer is needed for the replenishment to bring the level back up to the full 2 litres.
However over a shortish time the fixer becomes discoloured with stop bath carry over and the dissolved silver from the prints that it is usually ditched well before I need to. Also going back to the number of sheets that Ilford suggest that a litre of fixer can be used for what is the dilution rate 1-4 or 1-9? I always use 1-4 with Tetenal fixer, so the calculations from ilford may not correspond exactly. |
#18
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John, Ilford actually give the fixer replenishment idea the thumbs up. They say that, properly done, it can lead to very long life for the fixer bath. For 1+4 working strength, and fibre paper, they recommend regular replenishment at a rate of 500ml/square metre. This is 250ml per 10 sheets of 10x8 paper. You say you are only using 100ml/ 10 sheets, but with Tetenal Fixer. Don't know what they recommend.
Alan |
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