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> loading 120 film to developing reel |
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#31
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I have used both SS and plastic centre load spirals. I have found no problem with 35mm film, but 120 has occasionally had two parts touching, and hence an undeveloped patch. For this reason I only use edge loading for 120 film.
I don't find the material the spiral is made of makes any difference either, but of course I haven't tried all makes. |
#32
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One thing I can say about that spirals, the plastic used for them is of high quality. Fifty years old Yankee and yesterday's Paterson have the same functionality, no signs of deterioration, Yankee is not even discolored.
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#33
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I have not tried it personally, but this author shows how he removed the ball bearings from a Paterson film reel which he claims makes loading the film much easier.
http://web.me.com/johnfinch/Pictoria...l_loading.html |
#34
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I learnt to use the stainless steel centre-starting reels years ago because I could never get a full roll of 35mm or 120 to go onto any of the plastic reels . I still don't fully understand why - maybe something to do with the humidity up here in N. Wales ? - more likely not keeping them 100% clean . Anyway, I get on well with the SS ones - for 120 . Ilford rolls are by far the best as far as the quality of the masking tape on the end of the film, its folding-back & sticking performance, and grip under the centre clip. It's amazing other manufacturers can't get this simple bit of manufacturing design correct.
Oh, one tip I can think of - if you load film in a dark-bag as I do, don't leave your watch, with a luminous dial, on your arm ! |
#35
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I have to agree with Phil. I bend over the first few mm of a 120 film and it works like a charm. I think it probably has something to do with stopping some of the "flexing" across the film when trying to load it onto a reel.
Last edited by CambsIan; 20th May 2012 at 07:38 PM. Reason: spelling mistake |
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