Tmax fixing and washing

[Dave miller]

As an aside; I've just developed my first roll of Tmax 400 and found it cleared completely after 3 minutes in standard Agfa fixer, although I gave it an extra 2 minutes due to Kodak's advice.

[Mike O'Pray]

Originally Posted by Dave

As an aside; I've just developed my first roll of Tmax 400 and found it cleared completely after 3 minutes in standard Agfa fixer, although I gave it an extra 2 minutes due to Kodak's advice.

Based on what I have read elsewhere, Dave, I have to say this is amazing. Most seem to suggest 8-10 mins. I wonder if Afga fix has something different about it?

Certainly worth thinking about getting Afga as it is this good. I have a feeling that Process Supplies keeps this stuff at a very good price.

Mike

[Dave miller]

Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray

Based on what I have read elsewhere, Dave, I have to say this is amazing. Most seem to suggest 8-10 mins. I wonder if Afga fix has something different about it?

Certainly worth thinking about getting Afga as it is this good. I have a feeling that Process Supplies keeps this stuff at a very good price.

Mike

As far as I know it's no better than any other fixer. I just gave the film three times it's clearing time instead of my more usual x2.

[Mike O'Pray]

The usual issue with Tmax is not being able to get rid of the pink colouration unless 8-10 mins is given plus if some posters elsewhere are to be believed HCA, then enough water rinses to fill Pitsford Reservoir and a human sacrifice when it is full moon just in case.

In fact there is a "sticky" elsewhere on the problem of clearing TMax. A sticky is usually reserved for insurmountable problems like finding where the figure for pi eventually recurs .

I take it that after 5 mins there was no sign of this colour at all?

Might be your extraordinary hard water in your area and mine is not far behind. Stay still under a shower long enough in the East of the county and you turn into a statue

Mike

[dsallen]

I am always puzzled when I read advice about the need to fix Delta and T-Max films for very long times. When T-Max came out, I was surprised by the colour of the processed films and set about some tests. The issue proved not to be adequate fixing but the time it took to remove the dye through immersion in any liquid.

My solution was simple: fix the film for 3 minutes and then remove (from tank) and wash for two minutes with vigorous agitation in a jug with plain water, repeat and then give two minutes in the fix. Tests on the film did not indicate any need for the second fix - I just did it to be 'safe' (following everyone's comments about needing to fix for much longer).

These days I just use 3 minutes fix (Hypam, Adofix or similar) then remove (from tank) and wash for two minutes with vigorous agitation in a jug with plain water and then repeat. In the meantime, I wash the tank ready for final washing using the Ilford system. Films are always totally clear and tests show that they are thoroughly washed.

[Mike O'Pray]

Once I work my way through the few Harman 120s I have, I intend to try 120 TMax 400. It would seem from two posts here that the issue of stubborn dye is vastly over stated.

That's what I like about FADU. Sensible responses from sensible friends.

So no human sacrifices required to get clear film.

I'll stick with the odd Merlin incantation however just to be on the safe side. It got me a sword out of a stone the other day. Well that's my story. More an Arfur Daley story really than a tale of Arthur of the Round Table

Mike

[MartyNL]

Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray

Once I work my way through the few Harman 120s I have, I intend to try 120 TMax 400. It would seem from two posts here that the issue of stubborn dye is vastly over stated.

That's what I like about FADU. Sensible responses from sensible friends.

So no human sacrifices required to get clear film.

I'll stick with the odd Merlin incantation however just to be on the safe side. It got me a sword out of a stone the other day. Well that's my story. More an Arfur Daley story really than a tale of Arthur of the Round Table

Mike

After more than 20 years of using Tmax almost exclusively, I haven't had any issues with the anti-halation backing colour since the early days of getting to grips with the stuff as a student.

I simply use fresh(-ish) fix for 5minutes, which tends to be my standard time regardless, and wash using a rotary motor base changing the 24C water at 2,4,6,8 minute intervals.

I believe the temperature makes a difference, rather than just cold water out of the tap. And in all honesty, 20 minutes is probably over-done but it keeps the pink stuff away, if that's what you want.

Tmax is beautiful stuff. The only down side I find is that you'll notice the emulsion side of the negative is equally shiny to the non-emulsion side. This will generally cause problems if you print with glass negative holders.

[Dave miller]

Originally Posted by MartyNL

After more than 20 years of using Tmax almost exclusively, I haven't had any issues with the anti-halation backing colour since the early days of getting to grips with the stuff as a student.

I simply use fresh(-ish) fix for 5minutes, which tends to be my standard time regardless, and wash using a rotary motor base changing the 24C water at 2,4,6,8 minute intervals.

I believe the temperature makes a difference, rather than just cold water out of the tap. And in all honesty, 20 minutes is probably over-done but it keeps the pink stuff away, if that's what you want.

Tmax is beautiful stuff. The only down side I find is that you'll notice the emulsion side of the negative is equally shiny to the non-emulsion side. This will generally cause problems if you print with glass negative holders.

Given that my experience of Tmax currently runs to developing one film and printing one frame I cannot claim to be familiar with it.

Two points, I printed my one frame with the negative in a glass negative holder without noticing any problem. The negatives have dried perfectly flat which is nice.

I'm waiting delivery of other developers so that I can try to find out if there are any that are better of worse than D76.

[MikeHeller]

I have noticed the pink colour after developing and fixing TMax and wondered if it actually mattered. I have noticed that it comes out in the fixer when it is fresh but less and less as the fixer ages.
I am stingy and reuse fixer until the clearing time doubles with the film leader (35mm) I chop off for the purpose.
Does the pink colour matter? Perhaps it affects the printing grade with multigrade?
Mike

[Miha]

Dave, I've just had a look at some of the Tmax (100&400, 135&120) negative strips that were fixed in either Ilford rapid fix or Agefix for 5-6 minutes and washed using the Ilford washing sequence and they are perfectly clear - no hint of the pink colour at all.

It think the issue with Tmax films is that the fixer gets exhausted sooner compared to other films and not that they need to be fixed any longer than other films.