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  #21  
Old 22nd October 2016, 06:36 PM
colinH colinH is offline
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In my defence I would say that there are a number of references on the net for using Fomabrom variant IV 123 - notably George Smythe on Alternative Photography site - but if I am still unable to get the process to work using it I shall most certainly consider other types; its costing too much money at present for no results!
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  #22  
Old 23rd October 2016, 07:47 AM
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B&W Neil B&W Neil is offline
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As mentioned previosly 123 will Bromoil but a matt paper (112) is easier to ink - well that's my experience. Next time you buy in paper give the 112 a go and do a comparison.

IMO your inking problem is not the paper but the bleach / tanning time which should be at least 10 minutes. And you should use a muddy / flat and sighly over exposed print for making the matrix. A good developer for matrix making is Kodak D163. If you haven't the chemicals to hands to make this use a diuted commercial paper developer. Careful attention should be paid to fixing times - check the tutorials on the Bromoil Circle of GB's web site - and stick to them.

Neil.
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  #23  
Old 26th October 2016, 03:47 PM
colinH colinH is offline
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Right! - 112 has arrived, so I shall try again to produce an image where the ink sticks to the paper. Having never seen a real bromoil, only photos, I don't know what it is I'm aiming for. When things are going properly, does the ink actually stick to the paper and not wash off or only remain there after the whole thing has dried fully.
Having re-read the Bromoil Circle of GB's web site and instructions it states that after the initial B&W print is made it should be fixed (fully etc.) and then dried. Is that an absolute requirement of the process; that it should be dried and then soaked again before it is put into the bleach/tan? Unless some chemical process takes place during the drying and then soaking part, it seems that time could be saved by just continuing the process.
Also those of you who mix your own chemicals, do you keep each solution separate and only mix as and when required?
AND, what is the shelf life of the bleach/tan, as a mixed solution and as separate components?
Sorry for questions but seems a good time to ask and of course there may be others who might be curious and benefit too.
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  #24  
Old 26th October 2016, 04:51 PM
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I am a member of the Bromoil Circle of GB and I advise you follow their advice to the letter, if you don't you are bound to encounter problems.

The Bromoil Circle of GB goes back to the origins of the Bromoil when it started to be cosidered an art form. It even receives National Lottery Funding to keep going!

The drying process is important and many Broilists even 'super dry.' With regard to the bleach it does keep well and my bottle of Gilbert's is over a year old and still working fine. Before Gilbert's I used Venn's and that kept well.

With inking I would advise looking at a few Youtube vids to see how it is done - every Bromilist will do it slightly differently. It is a difficult thing to master but after you have done a few you will work out a style of your own.

Neil.
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