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Old 6th June 2012, 07:02 AM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Default Alkali Fixers

In another thread there is mention of the use of alkali fixers. Can anyone say that they can detect any difference in their results that stems from the use of alkali stop baths or fixers and if so which products and methods are you using?
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Old 6th June 2012, 08:06 AM
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Dave,
if you can get the Film Developer Cookbook, there the advantages of an all alkali line and therefore alkali fix are described in Chapter 12, better then I ever could in my bad school English ;-)
And that convinced me.
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Old 6th June 2012, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mono View Post
Dave,
if you can get the Film Developer Cookbook, there the advantages of an all alkali line and therefore alkali fix are described in Chapter 12, better then I ever could in my bad school English ;-)
And that convinced me.
Thanks Mono, I've read that but I'm interested in other peoples findings; can you see a difference in results?
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Old 6th June 2012, 09:04 AM
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Dave, I am just about to try...
So I have no experience so far.
Well, I doubt there will be any visible difference.
Just the knowledge of archival and water and chemistry saving advantage.
And that alone would be enough for me ;-)
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Old 6th June 2012, 09:16 AM
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I do use them for fixing film and paper, and yes, besides the points from Folker, I get a more intense stain from pyro negs; besides that they work like any other so I will keep using them.
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Old 6th June 2012, 09:20 AM
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I do use them for fixing film and paper, and yes, besides the points from Folker, I get a more intense stain from pyro negs; besides that they work like any other so I will keep using them.
I accept that they work the same, it's just that they are more expensive and do not seem to offer the same capacity. Is that your experience?
Since I cannot see any difference in results I wondered if anyone else can; hence my question.
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Old 6th June 2012, 09:50 AM
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No I have not used them and not planning on it but it is claimed that fixing times are shorter and that hypo clear isn't required after paper fixing amongst other things.

http://tomwestbrook.com/Photography/notebook.html#fixer
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Old 6th June 2012, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muihlinn View Post
I do use them for fixing film and paper, and yes, besides the points from Folker, I get a more intense stain from pyro negs; besides that they work like any other so I will keep using them.
Yes, as far as I understand, alkali fixers are necessary for those using staining developers, which I have never done so far.
Apart from that see reasons above.
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Old 6th June 2012, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
I accept that they work the same, it's just that they are more expensive and do not seem to offer the same capacity. Is that your experience?
Since I cannot see any difference in results I wondered if anyone else can; hence my question.
Well, I mix my own fixer, usually tf3 for anything, and tf2 without sulfite for pyro processed negatives, not anything complicated and price is below any manufactured fixer, capacity may seem low compared with commercial ones, but is reasonable for my needs, with an average of 20 rolls/liter... but the bill comes at mixing time
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Old 6th June 2012, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
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Yes, as far as I understand, alkali fixers are necessary for those using staining developers, which I have never done so far.
Apart from that see reasons above.
It's not a must, just helps keeping the process alkaline and witout salts in fixer if you're looking for maximum stain on your negatives. I've used hypam, agefix and Rollei / labor partner neutral fixer, which worked fine with staining developers, tf2 just suits my needs better.
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