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#1
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a newbie with a Darkroom
Hi everyone,
I just finished building my very first darkroom. I've been shooting film for a while now but no previous experience on developing or printing film. Loving it so far. However I'm finding a bit frustrating so far. At times I come across problems and i don't really know where my problem lies. I just ordered a book about developing + printing but then I discovered this site, awesome! My main problem at the moment (and I read it's a common one) is my prints lack contrast, punch, they're flat. So first questions are: what are the important factors that affect contrast? enlarger (Vivitar 356)? temperature of the developer? distance of the safe light from enlarger? do you turn safe light off when exposing paper? link to a pic from my darkroom: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...e/IMG_1811.JPG thanks in advance! G |
#2
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Hi Guille and welcome to Fadu, Are you using Multigrade paper and the correct filters, The enlarger won't affect contrast, Getting the correct exposure of the paper, using the right MG filters, getting the time of developerment right, there are so many things that can effect the contrast so a little bit more information would help, I personally have my analyser/pro set to turn my safelight off during paper exposure as I find it easier to see where I want to dodge/burn, but as long as your safelight is at least a meter away from you developing dishs then you should not have a problem, give us a bit more info about how you work and the materials/chemicals you use and I am sure we will be able to help. I just had a looki atv the pic of your darkroom and 1 thing is to move your safelight, it should be at least a meter away from your enlarger, and you have a color enlarger, not a problem, but you must dial in the correct filteration for the grade of paper you are using,
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com Last edited by Richard Gould; 14th May 2013 at 11:09 AM. Reason: looked at darkroom |
#3
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A common mistake is to overexpose a print and then pull it too early from the developer. I usually aim for a 60 or 90 second dev (with a typical MG developer) before moving a print to stop/fix/wash. Another source of error is reusing old developer - Most people mix a tray of developer, use it for an evenings session, and then dispose of it.
Old and/or fogged papers can also produce less than ideal results.. |
#4
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Hi guys and thanks for replies.
I can already spot some mistakes from your answers. I would normally re-use the paper developer (Ilford Multi) more than once, so do I have to change it everytime? is there a set number of photos you can print from each batch of developer on the tray? Regarding the 60 - 90 seconds, I think that's a lot of time for me. If I leave it that long then I get a black picture, does that mean I'm exposing it too long? Richard - i use Ilford Multigrade paper but i wasn't aware I need to set any filters, which filters? Aren't the filters those in the colour head (C/M/Y) of my enlarger? and if so do they affect the contrast of the image? I have many more questions but i'm sure they'll start to arise during the course of the conversation! ; ) thanks! |
#5
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HiGuille Zoom,
Welcome to FADU. This link to the Ilford Website and the leaflet on how to make your first print may be of help for setting filters and development times. Good luck. http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/...1321242292.pdf
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Regards Richard |
#6
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Guille, you haven't said what book you have read but I'd strongly recommend Tim Rudman's " The Photographer's Master Printing Course" It contains everything you will need to know about printing.
As a supplementary book which covers printing and some related stuff I'd get Les McLean's "Creative Black and White Photography" Both available from Allibris Books or Amazon as secondhand for about £20 or less. Probably the best £20 you'll spend on darkroom matters. Mike |
#7
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Guille, I hadn't realized you had a colour enlarger, so yes, use the colour filters in your enlarger to set the grades, as for the developer, you can keep Multigrade developer diluted for a week in a full bottle, and you should be able to develop around 70 sheets of 10x8 paper in one litre of working strength developer, If your prints are turning black in 60 to 90 seconds then you are over exposing your prints by a lot, if you do not develop the prints for the the full 60 to 90 seconds then you will get grey flat prints, so get your exposure times correct, so that the print is fully developed in 60 to 90 seconds, and if the print still does not look right then try either increasing the paper grade or decreasing the grade, that is, if you are using the settings for grade 2 then dial in grade 3, or grade 1, and see if that helps, back to the paper developer, I will keep my dilute paper dev and re use it, but after a week it tends to go very brown, if that happens then throw it and mix fresh, but I am tending towards thinking that paper exposure could be a problem so work at getting that right first.
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#8
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Quote:
Capacity wise, one litre of working strength MG developer (at 1+9) will do 100 sheets of RC paper or 50 sheets of FB (both 10x8 Ilford MGIV - Other papers may exhaust the developer faster). One money saving tip: Rather than using Ilfostop or the Kodak equivalent, get some citric acid from Boots (or similar store). A teaspoon of powder in a litre of water is sufficient and will last long enough for one session. |
#9
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Hi Guille,
Lots of great suggestions so far. congrats on getting your darkroom setup! it is indeed confusing when youre first starting out but quite coincidentally i have done a 3 step guide to black and white printing on my blog which you may find useful. you can find it at www.twelvesmallsquares.blogspot.co.uk under the "how to" section. hopefully youll find that useful. |
#10
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Hello Guille. As you have probably started to realise it will make life easier if you standardise as much as possible, eg develop each print for 90 seconds if using R.C. paper. Keep the developer around 20 degrees C. Always use the same F stop on the enlarger lens (2 stops down is good)
Getting a good negative to start with is half the battle - or maybe even three-quarters of the battle. Probably the best way to do this initially is to standardise (that word again!) on one film and one film developer. Standardise on a developing temperature -20degrees C. is what most people use. Standardise on a method of agitation. And vary the development time to eventually get negatives that will print with a good range of contrast on a middle setting of the contrast range of filters in your enlarger. Remember, the more development you give the film the contrastier it will come out and a softer filter grade will be needed when printing. If in doubt start with the manufacturer's recommended developing time. You will get plenty of help on this site. Good luck. Alan |
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