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Loading Jobo 2509N Reels
Loading Jobo 2509N Reels
From our special correspondent.
Published by Bob
23rd September 2009
Default Loading Jobo 2509N Reels

I will just make some notes about loading the Jobo 2509(N) reels for LF film. I will not cover anything else about using these reels as it is all otherwise pretty straightforward. I do not use the special loader or other aids. It is undoubtedly a bit of a fiddle at first but you soon get the hang of it. I have tried to make images in the past of the technique for loading these reels with very limited success. However, for what it is worth, here goes...


I have notched one side of the reel so I can locate the same side in the dark. This allows me to keep track of the negatives as the two sides of the reel are otherwise identical.





Before starting, wash your hands to remove grease, dirt and dead skin. It is almost impossible to load these reels without touching at least a bit of the edge of the film sheets. Saying that, I have never seen finger marks on the processed film using this method. Oh, and for the hard of thinking, all the steps below should be performed in total darkness when loading film you wish to process...

I load from the outside slots inwards. If loading from the inside slots outwards, the inner film sheet gets in the way of loading the next sheet because of the curve of the film when it is loaded in the reel. Note the orientation of the film notches in the picture - this ensures that the emulsion side of the film faces the centre of the reel.

I find the correct slot by using my first finger and thumb to locate the required slot along the edge of the reel and slide the film into the slot under my finger & thumb. Once the sheet has gone in a few cm I can remove my fingers. I also have no qualms about gripping the very edge of the end of the sheet as I slot it in and wiggle it a bit as it tends to catch on the ribs of the reel as it goes in (you can also move your fingers to the side of the reel to block the film sheet from catching).





Once a sheet is loaded correctly you will not be able to pull it out of the slot without quite a strong tug. Also, run your finger tip along the end of the film to check it is in line with the other loaded sheets and is not cross-threaded on the reel - it is pretty easy to load a sheet so that one side of the sheet goes in the topmost slot and the other side of the sheet goes in the next slot down for example - this is where using my finger and thumb as a guide comes in useful.

Grabbing the next sheet of film I move my finger and thumb to the next slot down and repeat for each side. Once all the sheets are loaded I run my finger along the ends of the loaded sheets to feel that they are all separated and in-line.

Once all six sheets (or fewer) are loaded I next need to attach the plastic clips (for 2509N reels, the earlier 2509 reels do not have the clips). The centre locator of the clip can be found on each side of the reel by feeling between the loaded film sheets for a small boss that stands proud of the reel with your index or middle finger. This allows you to snap the clip on using your thumb in the centre of the clip to push it over the protrusion.





As always with this kind of thing, practice in the light first and then with your eyes closed before trying to load and process important film in complete darkness. Good luck.


The usual disclaimer applies: this is my way of doing things - I certainly make no claim that this is the best way of doing it!
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  #1  
By Keith Tapscott. on 23rd September 2009, 06:02 PM
Default

Bob, do you use inversion or a Jobo rotary-processor when you develop 5x4 inch film-sheets?
I have two 2509 reels and find them quite easy to use. I agree that the optional loading jig thingy is not needed.
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  #2  
By Bob on 23rd September 2009, 06:15 PM
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Both rotary and semi-stand. I have used my CPE-2 with lift for b&w and colour but also used the Jobo tanks with stand/semi-stand for b&w. Normal inversion agitation uses a lot of developer in these tanks but with stand and semi-stand you tend to use highly dilute developers like Rodinal 100:1 or Pyrocat HD (Precsysol would do well too). I have a couple of different type of tops for the tanks: cog types for rotary and cap type for inversion so I can swap them over as required.
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  #3  
By Peter Hogan on 23rd September 2009, 06:30 PM
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Got to admit I gave up on these things long ago... just couldn't get them right.
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  #4  
By Keith Tapscott. on 23rd September 2009, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob View Post
Both rotary and semi-stand. I have used my CPE-2 with lift for b&w and colour but also used the Jobo tanks with stand/semi-stand for b&w. Normal inversion agitation uses a lot of developer in these tanks but with stand and semi-stand you tend to use highly dilute developers like Rodinal 100:1 or Pyrocat HD (Precsysol would do well too). I have a couple of different type of tops for the tanks: cog types for rotary and cap type for inversion so I can swap them over as required.
Me too Bob, but I have only used rotary processing with sheet-films so far. What volume of developer, stop-bath and fixer do you use with inversion agitation?
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  #5  
By Bob on 23rd September 2009, 07:42 PM
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I make up 1.5 litres of developer and pour it in until I can see it covering the bottom of the funnel inside the cap type lid. This leaves about 50-75ml of developer in the jug. This ensures that the film is well covered but leaves an air-gap for the inversion to work. You need a well-fitting lid as the developer comes well over the top of the bottom half of the tank.

That's for the one-reel tank. I have used my three-reel tank a couple of times but I forget the amount I have used - about 3 litres I think. Could use the three-reel tank for one reel but the method above works fine as my lids fit tightly (Famous Last Words; Vol.13; pp 645)...

I sometimes switch to rotary for stop and fixer (350ml) - usually rotating by hand rather than swapping to a rotary lid but it can get messy - certainly do it in the sink and wear rubber gloves!

I stick a hose down the centre column to wash.
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  #6  
By Bob on 23rd September 2009, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Hogan View Post
Got to admit I gave up on these things long ago... just couldn't get them right.
Not an uncommon event it must be said...

The earlier, non-N versions, seem to give the most trouble, especially with respect to uneven rotary development and some people suggest only loading them with four sheets, leaving the outer slots unused. I only have the newer N types and once loading them is mastered I find they work well.
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  #7  
By Keith Tapscott. on 26th September 2009, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob View Post
Both rotary and semi-stand. I have used my CPE-2 with lift for b&w and colour but also used the Jobo tanks with stand/semi-stand for b&w.
Normal inversion agitation uses a lot of developer in these tanks but with stand and semi-stand you tend to use highly dilute developers like Rodinal 100:1 or Pyrocat HD (Precsysol would do well too).
I have a couple of different type of tops for the tanks: cog types for rotary and cap type for inversion so I can swap them over as required.
I think it is a good idea if you are using inversion agitation for 5x4 film-sheets, to use a developer with higher dilutions than a D-76 type developer for reasons of economy.
I have some Prescysol-EF and I have just ordered some Champion Promicrol which I will try at the 1+14 dilution..
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  #8  
By Keith Tapscott. on 26th September 2009, 01:11 PM
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Out of curiosity, I placed a 2509N reel with the centre-core in my 2521 tank and filled it with water to the top. I then poured the water into a 2 litre measuring jug and it was exactly on the 1200ml mark.
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  #9  
By cvansas on 2nd August 2011, 05:44 PM
Unhappy jobo 2509 + n

Thanks a lot Bob,
Your explanation about loading films is very clear and I now also added some dents on the side my reel in order to determine the position of the 'small boss'.
The first time I was developing my film in the Jobo 2520 tank something went terribly wrong during shooting and development:

[image missing]

As far as I can see this looks like a slideholder that has lightleaks, but during the development I guess that not taking in consideration that the emulsion side has to be faced towards the center caused the inequal development.

The only thing I can not clarify is what caused the clear circular scratches on the film. Maybe anybody knows how to prevent this before Ill go back to moscow to redo the shot?
best,
Crispijn
Last edited by Bob; 2nd May 2013 at 11:04 PM.. Reason: [image missing]
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