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Weston meters
I have been trying to buy an example in good working order. I got a IV that was dead. Following an earlier thread, I tried to fix it without success. It was very difficult to get in at the guts without causing damage. I then got a V which had some life, but didn't square with the readings from modern electronic meters. There seems to be a load of Vs on eBay at the moment at very low prices. I suspect most don't work. I then got a Euromaster II, thinking that the last version made would be most reliable. Again, it's readings can be as much as 2 stops away from a Digipro F. I know not to expect identical readings, but 2 stops is a lot. Testing was in daylight in incident mode with both meters side by side and pointing the same way.
I have noticed that the Westons give readings when held with the dial facing you and button on top. Is that the correct way to hold them? I would also like to know how best to use the zero calibration. It's a bit awkward with the screw underneath when you're looking at the dial. Any help appreciated. Thanks Alex |
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Have you ever thought of a Lunasix 3 meter? I've had one since late 1970s and always been very pleased with it. Just thought I would add that.
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Hi. I have had the Lunasix 3, and still have a Lunasix F. They are really good. I was looking for something small and reliable to carry in a pocket. I've seen a small Gossen selenium meter called a Bisix that looks like a possibility. Alex
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Since then I've picked up a few Westons and although they appear to work the cells are weak and they never reach enough output to be useable. My pre WWII AVO meter (selenium cell) though is still accurate, just wish Ilford would put the H&D speed on the film boxes. I prefer my Lunatix meters (I have 2) at least they remain accurate. and the meter on my Yashicamat 124's good as well. My back up meters (one bought off Tudor via this forum) are Leningrad 4's and surprisingly accurate. I should add I've been shooting film for a few years and know all the tricks to get good exposure readings regardless of the type of meter, hand-held or camera, Ian Last edited by Lostlabours; 5th April 2014 at 07:47 PM. |
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I have here Westons, all getting on a bit like me but less accurate in their assessments.
I now rely on my Minolta Autometers, though they are old, film speeds in ASA, and are nearly a stop different from the Westons, I set 100 at 64 to get the same reading. They both give the same and are different models, a III and a IIIF (the former being up for sale). The multi pattern metering on my Nikon FA gives the same reading as an incident light from a hand held. I've never used the meter on the Yashica 124 though I have some still sealed, but old, batteries for it. More modern batteries one dealer told me will be a third of a stop out. The meter on the digitals are accurate but who wants to carry another camera just for it's metering. |
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For all of my life, my main meters have all been Westons. I have always found them accurate and reliable. Up to the Weston III the selenium cells were indestructible. From the IV onwards a different more sensitive cell was used and this (reportably) could fail. However, I have a number of Westons including II, III, IV (not a partciularly good design) and a V which is my every day meter that I have been using for over 20 years.
The way to correctly zero the meter is to take a cloth (tea towel will do) place it on the edge of a table. Then turn the meter over to look at the back. Place a screwdriver in the adjustment screw, hold in place and then turn over so you can see the dial. Place the meter cell firmly on the cloth (so that all light is excluded) with the bottom half proud of the table so that you can keep the screwdriver in place. Now that you have the cell completely shielded from any light and the screwdriver in place, adjust to the point where the needle is at the zero position. In answer to your question about holding the meter, Westons should be held in a horizontal orientation with the the meter scale to the left. I have attached the manual for the Weston V which explains all of the main workings of Weston meters. It is, with careful reading, also a master class in the core concepts of metering accurately. Bests, David. www.dsallen.de
__________________
David, d.s.allen, fotograf dsallenberlin@gmail.com http://dsallen.carpentier-galerie.de |
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Thanks for the offer, but I will leave it. The most recent one reacts to light, so I will try the zero adjustment to see if that helps. David, thanks for your explanation and manual. I will get zeroing today. Alex |
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Thanks, David. I have seen that site before. I'm sure the finished product is good, but £90 put me off. I have a Gossen Digipro which I use regularly, but wanted something smaller to carry in my pocket. I zeroed the EuromasterII and tried it out in incident mode on Sunday. It was agreeing with my Nikon F100 in c/w mode pointed at a mid-tone. I have just this minute developed the film and it looks quite good. The shots outdoors in daylight look fine. It appears, however, to have underexposed a shot in deep shadow under a bridge, but I will wait to see how that one prints. The Nikon version appears very over exposed. Technique could easily be at fault, rather than equipment!
Alex. |
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