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  #1  
Old 30th March 2020, 08:14 PM
Nat Polton Nat Polton is offline
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Default Timing in the dark for a Nova Slot Tank.

Many years ago, before I had a drum print processor, I dish developed colour prints.
For timing I had a stop clock and small torch inside a cardboard box.
The clock was viewed through a tiny peephole. That was my solution to timing the various stages of colour print processing in complete darkness.
Now I have a Nova slot tank and am about to try colour developing again, I was wondering if there have been any improvements in timing methods for total darkness developing.
I have seen a few apps for smart phones but I do not use one. I keep a cheapo cell phone in the glove compartment for emergencies only. So phone apps are out of the question.
I made my own enlarger timer years ago from circuit diagrams in a book on electronic projects for photographers.
It seems that people don't make anything these days. They just buy ready made boxes of tricks.
Any ideas then for a timer to use in total darkness suitable for colour print developing.
Or is it back to the shoe box, clock and torch?

Cheers.
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Old 30th March 2020, 08:39 PM
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B&W Neil B&W Neil is offline
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It's been a while since I've done colour work totally blacked out and this had me wondering how I managed the timing. Then it came to me I used the Nova luminous darkroom clock that still hangs on my darkroom wall. Primative but effective, not sure if they still make them.

Neil.
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  #3  
Old 30th March 2020, 09:03 PM
John King John King is offline
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I use an electronic clock like a stop watch in reverse that counts down and when your time is up, there is a very loud 'beeper' that alerts you it is time to take the paper out. I usually set mine to go off 2 seconds before the 45 seconds, so I can transfer the paper from the developer into the stop bath.

Mine was bought from First Call and I think it cost me around a tenner about 10 years ago
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Old 31st March 2020, 12:21 AM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Not an easy matter to find the buttons to stop/start clocks in total darkness. First idea: It might be worthwhile to start a tape or ipod on your person which you have timed with announcements Only the developer time is really crucial.

Second idea: A lot of watches can be set to beep in your pocket when the dev time is up and in a deep slot Nova it might be possible to use a luminous alarm clock timer turning it up to face you once the stop portion has been completed.

3rd idea: Here's how to get to B by not starting from A but if you feel that RA4 is for you, Nat, then I'd be tempted to try and find a DUKA lamp. Yes there are not cheap but boy do they make things easier

Best of luck whatever you decide

Mike
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Old 31st March 2020, 06:41 AM
MikeH MikeH is offline
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There are SW radio time stations. They broadcast continuously. Kind of annoying to listen to. They call out each minute with a tone. Seconds are like a ticking clovk.
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Old 31st March 2020, 07:17 AM
John King John King is offline
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I have never found a problem at all with using a timer in the darkroom to process colourRA4. To describe the timer:-

There are only 3 buttons two are about 1cmx1cm on the front edge of the type of timer I use. The left hand one is to set minutes. The middle one is to set seconds These two are identical but the position is very easy to remember. This can be done before you turn off the light. The start/stop button which is about 1.5cmx1cm is on the right and oblong shape is easily identified in the dark.

Once the time is set and you have exposed the paper, attach the paper to the clip and slot it into the processor and press the oblong button to start. At the end of the time set, the beeper will sound and transfer the paper to the stop bath. The time will automatically reset to the time you started with. The time needed in the stop bath is about 10-20 seconds, so this can be timed by counting 'elephants' and agitating the paper all the time.

Transfer the paper into the blix and start the time again (it is the same as the developer, but it doesn't matter if you are a few seconds over)
After around 20 seconds the light can be switched on and continue as normal.

I eventually graduated on to using a Duka 50 colour safelight but these are not available new but they can be picked up for around £50 each. Contrary to a lot of opinions they do work! They have an adjustable light output operated by a slider on the side that shuts of the amount of light that used. They WILL fog the paper if you have the output set too high or it is too close to the enlarger. This is about 6 feet away and adjusted to reflect the light off the white ceiling. It is directly behind where I stand so for most of the time I am working in my own shadow which reduces the light level onto the paper. Likewise attaching the paper to the clip is done in this shadow and transferring it to the processor takes less than a second. Once I have used one I would never go back to working without one.

Last edited by John King; 31st March 2020 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 31st March 2020, 12:05 PM
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Martin Aislabie Martin Aislabie is offline
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I use a Paterson Triple Timer for working incomplete darkness - https://www.theimagingwarehouse.com/...Timers/APTP800

You can set 3 times (the clue is in the name) and it counts down, then bleeps at you when the time is up.

A small amount of manual dexterity is all that is required to find the thing in the dark, to both start it and cancel its annoying wail.

If you were to need more than 3 stages in complete darkness for your process, I'd use a 2nd timer - started at the same time for the 4th, 5th and 6th steps - if required.

No need to faff around with dim touches and clocks in cupboards.

YMMV

Martin
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Old 31st March 2020, 01:15 PM
John King John King is offline
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Default Timer

I forgot to mention these timers I use have a magnet in the base so to make sure it does not 'wander' off, or more likely gets knocked, I always place it on top of the LPL transformer which has a steel outer case which stays in one place so easy to find.
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Old 31st March 2020, 01:36 PM
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If you wanted to make something then I imagine a slightly updated version of your box, timer & lamp outfit using a very dim green LED at the paper's notch wavelength in place of the bulb which would need less shielding would suffice - especially as the paper is partially shielded itself in the Nova's slots. Make it out of black mount board and you could probably leave the display open as long as you don't shine it directly on the paper as with no other light on you only need a VERY dim LED.

Simpler option may be a talking timer such as this one on Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Talking-Cou...5629864&sr=8-7 or there are timers with an alarm and/or vibrate function.

I've not tried any of these myself tho as being somewhat colour-blind makes colour printing impractical (unless I'm the only one who ever sees the results ).

Last edited by Bob; 31st March 2020 at 01:40 PM.
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  #10  
Old 31st March 2020, 02:11 PM
Lostlabours Lostlabours is online now
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I use my normal clockwork print timer illuminated by a Kodak Beehive safe-light and 10H filter, the lamp is pointing away from the tank and there's no chance of fogging. A Wratten 10 or Ilford 908 is the recommended filter for a colour darkroom, either indirectly for short distances or direct lighting ina very large space. A 10H is more spwecifically corrected for one of the older Ektacolor papers.

This has always worked well so no reason to change.

Ian

Last edited by Lostlabours; 31st March 2020 at 02:17 PM.
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