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  #11  
Old 5th October 2018, 08:00 PM
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skellum skellum is offline
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Mike, that is a spectacularly generous offer.

Well done that man!
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  #12  
Old 5th October 2018, 08:14 PM
Svend Svend is offline
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Originally Posted by skellum View Post
Mike, that is a spectacularly generous offer.

Well done that man!
+1! Good one Mike. Just read that. Very generous indeed. Hats off to you. Great community here.
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  #13  
Old 5th October 2018, 10:06 PM
MattPitts MattPitts is offline
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Originally Posted by MikeHeller View Post
I have a Durst M605 I can let you have for the cost of postage and packing if you are interested.

I think I would need to buy one of those plastic lidded containers to pack it into and then find a carrier that could pick it up for shipment.

I will need to check what bits and pieces I have with it.

Let me know if you are interested.

Mike
Hi Mike, yes I would be interested, is this the BW version?
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  #14  
Old 5th October 2018, 10:35 PM
MattPitts MattPitts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeHeller View Post
I have a Durst M605 I can let you have for the cost of postage and packing if you are interested.

I think I would need to buy one of those plastic lidded containers to pack it into and then find a carrier that could pick it up for shipment.

I will need to check what bits and pieces I have with it.

Let me know if you are interested.

Mike
That's awesome, I'd love to have it, whereabouts are you? I'm based in Kent. If you're able to work out a cost of be happy to pay whatever is needed. Thanks for such a generous offer.

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  #15  
Old 6th October 2018, 10:38 AM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Matt this is advice that might almost be bordering on interference but its based on my experience setting up a M605 by myself from its bits

In hindsight I'd have much preferred to have had a chance to at least have had the previous owner show me the ropes so to speak on it. Plus there are bits that need very careful wrapping to be sure of successful transport which will not be cheap.

So my advice would be to get up to N Wales and collect from Mike if that is fine by him. Yes it is time consuming and costs but so does the parcel service, wrapping etc plus the cost of not having had a face to face with the person who knows all about it and how to set it up.

Don't get me wrong, it can be done by yourself without help but I know what I'd have preferred to do if I had my time over again.

It's a great enlarger.

Mike
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  #16  
Old 8th October 2018, 04:24 PM
MattPitts MattPitts is offline
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Thanks to Mike Heller for all his help and for sorting out the enlarger for me to collect. As far as I can tell its all in working order. The only issue I can see is the plastic cog on the winder is pretty worn and slips a bit as you wind the whole thing up and down. All I need now is some paper and developer to give it a try :-)

Any recommendations on paper and developer?

I think we will have to move to a bigger house!
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  #17  
Old 8th October 2018, 05:48 PM
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I'd start off with Ilford Multigrade paper and developer.
I'd also suggest starting with RC paper while you get back in the darkroom 'groove'. RC paper is quicker to wash, and more forgiving of handling errors. Fibre paper is nice to handle, and often has a more attractive surface, but wash times are longer and stains from sloppy processing more likely. Plenty of folk are more than happy only ever to use RC.
Gloss finishes can be highly reflective for viewing the print, so I prefer the Pearl or satin surfaces on RC.
You might want to join the print exchanges once you're up and running. It encourages you to get printing, and you'll receive prints on a variety of papers, letting you see what they look like without actually having to buy and try them all out.
In a minute someone will come along and recommend Foma or Adox- just pick one and jump in. There are no bad papers on the market today- anyone producing rubbish would go to the wall in short order.
Good luck.
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  #18  
Old 8th October 2018, 06:54 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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There is likely to be a mechanism for tightening the cog against its track to prevent the head slipping. On the M670, which is a similar design, I recall taking off the cover plate at the back of the carriage. This gave access to four screws which governed tension on the nylon gear. Tightening the screws pushes the gear closer to its track, and can help stop the head slipping down. The nylon gears are prone to wear, but I haven’t seen one crack or otherwise fail. The darkroom I used at the Art School had several similar Durst models, some of which had this issue.
Alex


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  #19  
Old 8th October 2018, 07:01 PM
MattPitts MattPitts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmuir View Post
There is likely to be a mechanism for tightening the cog against its track to prevent the head slipping. On the M670, which is a similar design, I recall taking off the cover plate at the back of the carriage. This gave access to four screws which governed tension on the nylon gear. Tightening the screws pushes the gear closer to its track, and can help stop the head slipping down. The nylon gears are prone to wear, but I haven’t seen one crack or otherwise fail. The darkroom I used at the Art School had several similar Durst models, some of which had this issue.
Alex


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Thanks Alex, I have had the back cover off and inspected the nylon gear, which is very worn and needs replacing, but I suspect getting hold of one will be very difficult.
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  #20  
Old 8th October 2018, 07:07 PM
MattPitts MattPitts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skellum View Post
I'd start off with Ilford Multigrade paper and developer.
I'd also suggest starting with RC paper while you get back in the darkroom 'groove'. RC paper is quicker to wash, and more forgiving of handling errors. Fibre paper is nice to handle, and often has a more attractive surface, but wash times are longer and stains from sloppy processing more likely. Plenty of folk are more than happy only ever to use RC.
Gloss finishes can be highly reflective for viewing the print, so I prefer the Pearl or satin surfaces on RC.
You might want to join the print exchanges once you're up and running. It encourages you to get printing, and you'll receive prints on a variety of papers, letting you see what they look like without actually having to buy and try them all out.
In a minute someone will come along and recommend Foma or Adox- just pick one and jump in. There are no bad papers on the market today- anyone producing rubbish would go to the wall in short order.
Good luck.
Thanks for this, just one more question, can I use the same fixer and stop I already have developing films for the prints?
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