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  #1  
Old 11th February 2021, 09:49 AM
Faraz Faraz is offline
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Default Residue with Sepia / Fotospeed ST20

I'm toning FB papers with Fotospeed ST20. I often find the gloss surface of the paper becomes rough after toning. I wash for at least 15 mins after toning, but sometimes still get this slighter rough surface and occasionally drying stains which won't budge.

I do live in a hardwater area but have installed something to prevent the minerals in the water adhering to surfaces. It seems to work on my prints before toning, since installing I no longer need to use distilled water for a final rinse. So it's not a water issue.

Any ideas?
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Old 11th February 2021, 01:04 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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I once read that soaking the print in a standard solution of acetic acid (stop bath) for 5 minutes and then re-washing, should dissolve anything on the surface of the print that shouldn't be there. It works for me!

Just to be on the safe side, I keep a small bottle of it specifically for when I do any FB paper toning. For whatever reason, it doesn't seem to happen to RC prints put through the same toner...?

Terry S
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Old 11th February 2021, 02:25 PM
Faraz Faraz is offline
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I actually did this yesterday based on the basic idea that acid should dissolve the residue. Bit nervous about it so only gave in 30s, it helped for sure but didn't completely clear. I might try it again for longer.
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Old 11th February 2021, 02:34 PM
Faraz Faraz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry S View Post
For whatever reason, it doesn't seem to happen to RC prints put through the same toner...?

Terry S
Found this too, RC prints are fine
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  #5  
Old 11th February 2021, 03:01 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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For some reason it only seems to happen on FB prints, and only with ST20 toner, for me, I have wondered if there is something in FT 10 to help with toning RC prints but which affects FB paper in some way, not on every FB print, but on some, and I don't have any ideas why, but soaking in Acetic acid stop bath at standard solution for 5 minutes works , follow by washing for at least 10 minutes, and over a few years I have found that the Kodak stop bath works better than most, I have never had this when toning Art 300, only the FB paper I use, (Adox, which at the moment is not available, and Ilford classic), but with other toners I have used it has never happened, I have used the Fomatoner sepia, but I no one seems to stock it over here, so no choice but Fotospeed toner, the other thing I have noticed is that Fomatone is a slightly different colour to thee FT 10, which is why I did wonder about the make up of ST 10
Richard
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Old 11th February 2021, 03:35 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Like Richard, I too leave my FB prints in the acid solution for about 5 minutes, (don't be scared by the length of time required) followed by a good wash. If in the wash or even upon drying, the prints still looks as if the surface has a chalky appearance, I put them back in the acid and then gently rub the surface with a latex covered hand. I've only had to do this a couple of times, on darkly printed pictures.

The only two FB papers that I currently use are Ilford's Art 300, which tones fine and Ilford's FB Matt, that does require the acid bath after toning. I don't use commercial toners but mix my own from bought chemicals.

Terry S
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Old 11th February 2021, 03:51 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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you often get a scum on FB prints after toning, even when using the acetic acid stop bath, the easiest way to deal with this is to mix some wetting agent, put the print in the solution for 2 minutes, if any scum is left than carefully wipe any marks with a cotton wool swab, no need for further washing just dry easy to do and cleans the print ever time,
leaves a very clean print, in fact after toning I always use a wetting agent bath, cheap, and helps to clean the print
Richard
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Old 11th February 2021, 07:54 PM
Faraz Faraz is offline
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I also find I never get this on Art 300.

Thanks for the great tips. I've just put a print I thought was doomed through a 5min acid stop bath and it's come out great. I'll also try the wetting agent method.
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Old 20th January 2023, 05:11 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Resurrecting this not so new post, as I have had a problem after having experimented with a couple of home brew red toners last weekend, both of which I found in The Darkroom Cookbook. After toning some test prints, I now have some matt looking artifacts on the surfaces, when the glossy RC prints are turned from side to side in the light.

The prints were all made on Jessops RC glossy paper, so just thinking about it, until I try a different paper, I have to presume the toner does this on all papers. I must therefore try to tone some different papers over the weekend, which could solve the problem...

But, as it stands, I have put some of the test prints firstly through a stop bath solution this afternoon, as recommended earlier in this thread, but note that this recommendation was for FB prints. This procedure actually made things worse, producing centimetre long horizontal marks, which again are only noticed when the print is turned in the light, but are VERY noticeable.

On other test prints I tried a solution of sodium sulfite on one and sodium metabisulfite on another, after reading that both were often used as 'clearing baths'. After a good wash and left to dry, there appears to be no difference.

So, has anyone else had this happen to them? And are there any other suggestions that I might try?

Hopefully I will report back with more information over the weekend, as I quite like the colouration (for the right subject of course ) and would like to have it as something that I can use in the future.

Terry S
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Old 20th January 2023, 07:38 PM
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Reginald S Reginald S is offline
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I have no experience with RC paper.
FB paper to me means Foma Baryta exclusively.

For muddy surfaces Richard's hint of carefully rubbing the surface with cotton wool swab is good praxis.

Rough surfaces here either come from chalk or the emulsion herself.
For nice surfaces I give a final hardening to the emulsion, combined with destilled water clearance.

The acid baths recommended may explain successfully etching of chalked surfaces.
But Foma's soft surfaces here need a hardening treatment.
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