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  #11  
Old 18th January 2019, 05:44 PM
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Martin Aislabie Martin Aislabie is online now
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Hi

Just an obvious question - do you have the colour enlarger set to white light mode ?

As you dial in the colour filters any projected image on the baseboard should turn to a very strong colour.

If it doesn't - then you have white light mode selected.

The white light level will be located somewhere close to your colour dials.

I think we have made prints with the white light lever set to white in our time - and for myself more than a few times.

Good luck

Martin
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  #12  
Old 18th January 2019, 07:23 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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I hope that TFTMB is able to come back to us with his progress report/reaction to our suggestions.

Mike
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  #13  
Old 19th January 2019, 06:06 PM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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First, EI stands for exposure index and is used on exposure meters to indicate the product of aperture and exposure time. Shutters with concentric exposure time and aperture rings are often scaled in EI to allow transfer of exposure meter readings to the camera. Film speed or sensitivity is expressed in ISO, formerly ASA, Scheiner or DIN.

It appeared that your tests were not rigorous - there were several variables not accounted for. To test properly, change as few variables as possible.

- Make the best test enlargement you can, holding down the paper with the same sheet of glass as will be used for the contact print. Without changing any settings, expose another sheet of paper and retain it (in darkness, of course)
- Remove the negative and replace the negative carrier. Without changing the lens, aperture, exposure time or filtration, make another print on the same type of paper and wait a minute or two for the latent image to do most of its fading.
- develop the two sheets back-to-back, turning over several times, fix, wash and dry normally.

You can now evaluate the differences. Depending on the state of the lens (fungus etc) and whether the lightsource is condenser (high intrinsic contrast) or diffuse (similar to a contact print) you would observe differences but, at least, differences such as enlarger brightness, negative carrier glass, lens aperture, timer setting, latent image fading and paper type have been removed.

Lastly, if you can, attach scans of the prints described above and the original negative. There is a wealth of knowledge and experience in this forum.
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  #14  
Old 5th February 2019, 10:31 AM
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Muddy prints suggest to me over exposed and or wrong grade set for the contrast of the negative.
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  #15  
Old 5th February 2019, 01:29 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
I hope that TFTMB is able to come back to us with his progress report/reaction to our suggestions.

Mike
Well, it's been about 3 weeks now since TFTMB made his first post and has not returned since...

'Calling TFTMB, calling TFTMB, come back to the forum asap...'

Terry S
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  #16  
Old 5th February 2019, 02:20 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry S View Post
Well, it's been about 3 weeks now since TFTMB made his first post and has not returned since...

'Calling TFTMB, calling TFTMB, come back to the forum asap...'

Terry S
I fear we have lost him( could be her?). Unusual to have one post then nothing on FADU given there seemed to be both "meat and concern" in the original post. I suppose it was bound to happen at some time

Mike
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