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  #41  
Old 19th January 2010, 07:58 PM
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Steve O Steve O is offline
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I love my 3 slot 16x12 Nova and would replace it immediately if it failed. I used to have the same size mono unheated version and didn't like it, too flimsy and of course no temperature control.
I use mine with fresh dev and fix at the start of each session and wash it out in between but I sometimes leave the old chemicals in if I'm contact printing or experimenting with new techniques. This really saves time and money and as I've built it into my worktop it takes up practically no space.

Along with my Stopclock Pro it is the most useful piece of equipment I have in my darkroom (apart from the enlarger perhaps )

Steve
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  #42  
Old 19th January 2010, 09:41 PM
Roger Hicks Roger Hicks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B&W Neil View Post
Jon, photography and darkroom are creative processes and we should not be setting anything in concrete - otherwise all our work would look the same.

Neil.
Dear Neil,

Well, my 16x12 is set in silicone in my workbench...

Cheers,

R.
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  #43  
Old 19th January 2010, 09:50 PM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Hicks View Post
Dear Neil,

Well, my 16x12 is set in silicone in my workbench...

Cheers,

R.
You retain some flexibility then!
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  #44  
Old 19th January 2010, 10:07 PM
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Larry Larry is offline
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I too use a Nova. Actually, I have 2 versions.

Like SteveO, the unheated Mono 16x12 purchased about 10 years, it must be a Mark 1 version. I keep it as emergency backup). I don't think it particularly well built and the pastic walls have bowed somewhat but still useable. The heated versions are much more robust.

When I upgraded, I got a 16x12 Nova Quad from Secondhand Darkroom Supplies and I use it regularly. One of my better investments.

What I really like about it is that I can walk into my darkroom (shed) and start making prints with a minimum of setup time. Chemistry last a long time and as I use odourless liquids, a very pleasant working enviroment.

Great Invention - well done Nova. Used trays in my early days and alway made spills - to much agitation.

Larry
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  #45  
Old 19th January 2010, 10:43 PM
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B&W Neil B&W Neil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Hicks View Post
Dear Neil,

Well, my 16x12 is set in silicone in my workbench...

Cheers,

R.

Roger, I think we can allow that; very sensible
Mind, once they are filled they feel as if they have been set in concrete

Neil.
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  #46  
Old 30th June 2020, 07:26 PM
High Sierra High Sierra is offline
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My used Nova Trimate arrived today. Luckily I read this thread and the instructions before I plugged it in to give the slots a warm and a wash as I wasn't aware of the presence of a waterbath (despite wondering how the element warms the slots in the absence of a waterbath!). So, I know how to fill the waterbath but, in view of the advice not to move the unit once full as the unit may distort and break, how do I empty the water bath?
Pete
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  #47  
Old 30th June 2020, 07:43 PM
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MartyNL MartyNL is offline
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You tilt the unit so that the water runs out of the holes in the side. Normally there are black rubber stoppers covering these holes. Naturally this is done when the unit is empty of chemicals.
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  #48  
Old 30th June 2020, 08:22 PM
High Sierra High Sierra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartyNL View Post
You tilt the unit so that the water runs out of the holes in the side. Normally there are black rubber stoppers covering these holes. Naturally this is done when the unit is empty of chemicals.
Ah, great. No syphoning involved then. I've just about to read a thread devoted to this subject:
http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.or...ad.php?t=13043

Pete
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  #49  
Old 30th June 2020, 09:20 PM
John King John King is offline
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Originally Posted by jonsparkes View Post
Just been looking online at a 3 slot Nova Monochrome Print Processor, 8 x 10in priced at £155. The company selling this claim the developer can last 3 - 5 weeks. Almost sounds too good to be true, not only saving space but getting longer life out of the developer.
Although buying the thing would sting my pocket a little I would surely soon see the money back in what I save in developer.
Are they well spent money?
In my long experience with Nova tanks, the 3 to 5 weeks life is a conservative figure. With adequate replenishment of developer (Tetenal developer 20cc per each 10x8 sheet or with Kodak 10cc of developer per 10x 8 print) the developer will last AT LEAST 6 months! In fact I have used the developer tank on a 12 x 16 tank for over a year and only changed it to clean out the sludge and remove the tar from the slot. The blix bath should be replenished at the same rate as the developer but the stop bath will need chaging at regular intervals because the indicator will not be visible when it is exhausted

The trick is to add up the area of each sheet of paper you use (including test strips) and at the end of the session replenish with the amount required. It doesn't matter if you over replenish by a small amount but never ever under replenish.

For what it is worth, I find the Kodak developer to be far more stable than Tetenal and although the initial outlay for the 20lts of developer blix and starter is more, over time for 4 x 5 litre Tetenal kits the actual price works out at half of that by using Kodak'

At the end of a session when you fit the floating lids back, cover the slots with clingfilm. This will stop evaporation and the chemicals are no stronger than the working solution should be.
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  #50  
Old 30th June 2020, 09:23 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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The older models did need syphoning from the top as there were no holes in the sides - only holes on the top. Yes you could still pour from these holes by tipping it over but I am always frightened to do this in case I let it slip and anyway it may add a strain to the structure.

Where in terms of height are the holes on the sides as a matter of interest?

Thanks

Mike
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